Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
sic lodging in its wooden cabin. Call
Fundación del Rio
(
in San Carlos 2583-0035)
in ad-
vance to arrange your stay.
Isla Venada (Isla Donald Guevara)
Meet the Aurellanos. Three generations of the archipelago's most renowned artists come
from the jumble of wooden homes overlooking a gorgeous, glassy strait on the northwest-
ern shore of this wooded island.
Rodolfo Aurellano was the trailblazer. His works are dreamy, colorful reflections of Isla
Venada and the surrounding islands, Islas Rosita, Carolina and El Padre. Take some time
to talk with the elderly, barefoot artist and he might tell you about how he used to have to
hide deep in the bush to paint to avoid being identified as a revolutionary by Somoza´s
forces. Well into his 70s, Rodolfo still paints regularly and maintains a small collection of
works for sale (US$30 to US$1000).
Rodolfo's daughter and granddaughter,
Clarissa and Jeyselle Aurellano
( 8815-1761)
,
have followed his example. In addition to selling truly remarkable work, some of which
tours art galleries internationally, they also rent out simple rooms in the family home
(US$8 per person). Typical meals are also available (US$2.50) and guides (US$7 per day)
can be arranged to explore the island on foot. Call in advance to let them know you are
coming; they don't get many visitors.
A system of
caves
at the waterline honeycombs the island's northern shore and are only
visible in the dry season. You'll need a boat to explore them and see the many petrolgyphs
carved into their walls.
Isla Atravesada
Named because it's the only one oriented north-south, rather than east-west like the rest
of the archipelago, Atravesada (meaning 'to cross') is famed for its enormous 5m alligat-
ors and rich bird life. Flocks of ives, with their crab-cracking beaks, congregate in the
north-shore canopy alongside trees full of the dangling nests of the resident black cormor-
ants. Look for tiny colondrines in the marsh at sunset.
