Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
BORDER CROSSING: TO LOS CHILES, COSTA RICA
The lush Río Frio in the Refugio de Vida Silvestre Los Guatuzos is one of the most scenic border
crossings in Central America and the Río San Juan region's sole legal portal to Costa Rica. All
this will change when the new Japanese-funded bridge over the Río San Juan at Santa Fe is com-
pleted, linking the department by road with Las Tablillas in Costa Rica, but until then, this is your
only option. Not that you should complain, this laid-back crossing is really just a delightful river
cruise through stunning wetlands.
Begin at friendly
San Carlos Immigration
( 2583-0263; Malecón; 8am-5pm)
, 1½ blocks
from the Muelle Municipal (Municipal Dock), where you'll have your passport stamped before
being ushered onto collective boats (US$10, two hours, 10:30am, 1pm and 4pm Monday to
Saturday, 12:30pm and 4pm Sunday), which leave from the dock behind Immigration. Come at
least half-an-hour before your departure to complete immigration formalities.
It costs US$12 to enter Nicaragua, US$2 to exit. Entering or leaving Costa Rica is free. When
you arrive in Los Chiles, go to customs, opposite the dock, to have your bags searched, then an-
other building about two blocks away to have your passport stamped. Buses leave from the bus
terminal, about five blocks east of the dock, to San José and Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre
Caño Negro
For further information, head to shop.lonelyplanet.com to purchase a downloadable PDF of the
Northwestern Costa Rica chapter from Lonely Planet's
Costa Rica
guide.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Islas Solentiname
POP 800 / ELEV 40M TO 250M
If you're the type who likes islands draped in jungle, surrounded by crystalline waters that
reflect the forest, sun and sky, and populated by farmers and fishers who share their
wealth and also happen to be terrific artists and craftsmen, you do not want to miss this
oft-overlooked archipelago. And we haven't even mentioned the gators, monkeys, orchids
and migratory waterfowl, the sensational offshore fishing, the mind-blowing sunsets and
the spectacular starlight. Almost forgotten for 500 years, and nearly destroyed in a single
day, the Archipiélago de Solentiname does not seem entirely of this world.
Getting There & Around
running a new daily fast boat service (US$10, 90 minutes) between San Carlos and the is-
lands, leaving San Carlos at 3pm and returning at 9am. However, the subsidies for the ser-
