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land development that has compromised their nesting grounds. The Wildlife Conservation
Society (WCS; 2572-0506; www.wcs.org ; Muelle, 20m S, Pearl Lagoon ; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
has helped by hiring fishers to watch turtle nests and by educating them about the
damaging effects of artificial light and egg poaching on the ecosystem. Before WCS ar-
rived, 97% of hawksbill eggs were poached by fishers. Now they lose only 10% a year.
The WCS also manages an extensive turtle-tagging program that has enabled international
scientists to learn how vast the turtles' range actually is. It's worth dropping by the WCS
office to learn more.
Arrange trips to the keys in Pearl Lagoon. A day trip will set you back US$200 to
US$300 depending on the size of your group and how many islands you want to visit.
There are no longer any hotels operating on the keys, but it's possible to stay in tents on
one of the islands that remain in community hands.
In calm weather, it's just another hour (and another US$200) by panga from the keys to
the Corn Islands. Considering the adventure quotient, the price and the time involved, it
actually makes good sense to travel to the Corn Islands from Pearl Lagoon via the Pearl
Keys rather than doubling back to Bluefields and flying to Great Corn from there.
PEARL KEYS: PRIVATIZING PARADISE
For the fishers of the Pearl Lagoon basin, the Pearl Keys are like a second home, a place to rest
and gather fresh water while out at sea for days. So when in 1997 a foreign land speculator, Peter
Tsokas, purchased some old deeds to the islands - the legality of which are disputed - and pro-
ceeded to sell them off at huge profits to wealthy expat dreamers, things took a turn for the
worse.
Soon the new 'owners' began raising foreign flags, constructing large houses and hotels and
ordering the locals to keep off the islands, despite Nicaraguan laws guaranteeing public access to
beaches.
In response, the local community hired a lawyer to take up the case. In addition to claiming to
be the legitimate owners of the keys, the community also expressed concerns that the unregulated
construction was destroying the sensitive ecosystem.
The Nicaraguan government has publicly stated its commitment to returning the islands to the
community, but there has yet to be a definitive resolution.
Sights
Wild Cane Key
ISLAND
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