Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
TERRITORIO RAMA-KRIOL
If you really want to get away from the crowds and discover the best the Caribbean coast has to
offer, plan a trip into the little-visited Territorio Rama-Kriol. Jointly administered by the indigen-
ous Rama and Creole peoples of the region, it stretches from the southern half of Bahía de Blue-
fields all the way to the Costa Rican border, and includes stunning solitary beaches, mysterious
ruins cloaked in virgin rainforest and lazy mocha-colored rivers teeming with wildlife.
It's possible to visit the territory on a loop from Bluefields or continue all the way down to San
Juan de Nicaragua near the mouth of the Río San Juan. Begin with a visit to
Rama Cay
, a tiny,
rocky, barbell-shaped island in Bahía de Bluefields 15km southeast of the city and de facto capit-
al of the Rama nation. The island is dotted with coconut and banana palms and mango and bread-
fruit trees and laced with earthen trails that link clusters of stilted thatched bungalows, home to
over 1000 people, which accounts for over half of all remaining Rama. Check out the Moravian
church or head up to the breezy point on the north side of the island to chill out under coconut
trees. If you're feeling more active, learn to sail a traditional
dory
(dugout canoe) on the bay and
head across to wild
Mission Cay
for a picnic.
Across the bay and up the Kukra River you'll find
Tiktik Kaanu
, a remote Rama community
that's a great place to spend the night surrounded by the sounds of the jungle.
Heading out of Bahía de Bluefields through the Hone Sound passage (a turbulent gathering of
breaking waves that is a true test of your captain's skills) you'll come to
Monkey Point
, a Rasta-
influenced Creole community spread out on hillsides by the sea and surrounded by thick jungle.
Here you'll find some of the best beaches on the Caribbean mainland and a fascinating yet unex-
plored indigenous burial site shrouded in thick foliage, which is said to be one of the oldest ar-
chaeological sites in the country.
A short boat ride further south is
Bankukuk
, a small Rama community with fine beaches and
jungle-covered headlands jutting out into the calm Caribbean Sea.
Continuing south past Punta Gorda you'll arrive at
Corn River
, one of the most important wa-
terways of the magnificent Reserva Natural Indio Maíz. At the river mouth you'll find a tiny
Creole community, but the real attraction here is upriver where you'll be treated to some of the
best wildlife-viewing in the country. The towering trees are awash with birds and monkeys and
you may spot sloths or even a tapir.
Visit the
Gobierno Territorial Rama-Kriol
(GTRK; 2572-1765;
www.rama-territory.com
;
Parque
Reyes, 2c N; 8am-5pm)
in Bluefields to arrange transportation and accommodation. Most com-
munities rent rooms in solar-powered communal houses, but homestays are also available. The
GTRK is planning to launch a regular
panga
(small motorboat) service from Bluefields to San
Juan with stops at all the communities, but until then you'll either have to charter a boat or hitch
a ride with a traveling local - you'll be expected to contribute to fuel costs.
TOP OF CHAPTER
