Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
town. Even if you don't plan to jump in, its worth walking up here for the view, which is
magnificent. It takes in the three islands and a stunning back view of Isla de Ometepe's
smoldering crater. Order a cold beer and let the view work on you a while.
Buses and trucks (US$1, one hour) run to Juigalpa at 4am, 5:30am, 7am, 3:40pm and
4:30pm. Taxis from Juigalpa cost around US$25. It's also possible to travel from here to
Isla de Ometepe (US$4, six hours) on one of the sailing boats that bring plantains to the
mainland. They leave around four times a week, usually setting sail around 7pm. Call El
Pescadito to check on departures.
Cuapa
POP 2200
This small, picturesque mountain town became a famous pilgrimage-worthy destination
thanks to the
Virgin of Cuapa
, the porcelain goddess holding flowers in her angelic hands
at the entrance to town. On April 15, 1980, when tailor Bernardo MartÃnez was walking
home, the statue began to glow. The Virgin then appeared to him five times, three times as
apparitions and twice in his dreams, over the next five months. Her message was that all
Nicaragua would suffer without peace.
This, of course, turned out to be true, which is why pilgrims descend on the
Virgen de
Cuapa Santuario
(
www.cuapa.com
;
Parque Central, 2km N; 8am-5:30pm)
for a week each
May. The grounds, surrounded by magnolias, mango trees and boulder-strewn rangeland,
include two shrines, a replica statue and a small amphitheater. Pilgrims are welcome to
sleep here on May 8 to commemorate the first apparition. Sunday services are held at
11am weekly.
The leafy Parque Central is set on a hill just above downtown across from the Catholic
church, where MartÃnez is now laid to rest beneath a marble stone in the chapel floor.
Cuapa's other big draw is
El Monolito de Cuapa
, a massive stone dome that rises from a
hillside savanna. If you walk from town, it will take about two hours to reach the peak. Or
you could drive to the base and scramble up the back side until you reach the top (10 to 20
minutes).
