Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
RESERVA DE BIOSFERA BOSAWÁS
Supported by three neighboring reserves in Honduras (Río Patuca National Park, Tawhaka An-
thropological Reserve and Río Plátano Biosphere Reserve), Reserva de Biosfera Bosawás is the
largest protected expanse of rainforest north of the Amazon, clocking in at 20,000 sq km, more
than 14% of Nicaragua's national territory.
Named for three geographical features that delineate the reserve (the Río Bocay, Cerro Saslaya
and Río Waspuk), enormous Bosawás is also home to more than 200,000 people, including
30,000 Mayangna and Miskito, who have some claim to this land. The reserve loses 120 to 175
hectares of forest per year to farms, and more to illegal lumber operations. A 12,000 sq-km,
multi-use 'amortization area' aims to protect Bosawás by promoting sustainable economic devel-
opment, such as collecting wild plants to sell, organic cacao and coffee
fincas
(farms), and, of
course, tourism.
That's the trick. Access to the reserve's 8000 sq-km wild and undeveloped nucleus ranges from
challenging to almost impossible, and is never cheap or risk-free. Come prepared: someone in
your group (don't do this alone) should speak a fair amount of Spanish, and you should consider
taking malaria pills for longer adventures. Water-purification technology is necessary for most of
the reserve. But the real key to access is persistence - you can get in, just don't count on it hap-
pening on your timetable, and expect to be following leads like: 'find Jaguar José at the
pulpería
near the
empalme
of (something unpronounceable); he's got a truck that can get through.'
During the reserve's February to April dry season, rivers (read: the freeway system) may be
too low to travel, unless you help carry the canoe around the rapids.
Luckily, it's usually raining, and some spots (for instance, the Río Waspuk region) get
3200mm of rain per year - regular roads may be impassable most of the year. Temperatures aver-
age a sweaty 26.5°C (80°F), but bring a fleece for Cerro Kilambé (1750m).
You can begin inquiries at the Bosawás office at
Marena Central
(Ministry of the Environment &
Natural Resources; 2263-2830;
www.marena.gob.ni
;
Carretera Norte, Km 12.5, Managua; 8am-2pm)
in
Managua, or any of the satellite offices located in most large towns bordering the reserve, where
they can arrange guides and transportation, or at least point you in the right direction. It's often
easiest to access the reserve through lodges or private organizations, however, so ask around. Fol-
lowing are some points of entry (see the boxed text of
Click here
for more more):
»
Peñas Blancas - take guided trips to waterfalls and the stunning cliff-top mesa.
»
Siuna - park rangers guide you to campsites in Parque Nacional Saslaya.
»
Waspám & the Río Coco - take a riverboat ride into the waterfall-strewn wilderness, spending
the night in a jungle paradise.
»
Musuwas - head from Bonanza into the heart of the Mayangna nation.
»
Reserva Natural Cerro Cola Blanca - these waterfall-strewn highlands were named for the
white-tailed deer teeming on its forested slopes. The Bonanza Intur office can get you there.
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