Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
front beach. Hiking, fishing and canoeing options abound and you can spend the night in a
simple homestay. Further upriver in
Karatá
, where you can rent pastel-tinted
cabañas
(US$4 per person). Transportation is by collective
panga
(Wawa/Karatá US$2.20/3.30),
which leave from Lamlaya, 5km south of Bilwi.
Krukira
About 20km north of Bilwi, this is the gateway to the Reserva Natural Laguna Pahara,
with lots of wildlife, including huge tarpon. Although homestay accommodations and
meals can be arranged with local families, there are currently few services for visitors oth-
er than canoe tours (US$3 per hour). Buses leave Bilwi for Krukira daily at 1pm
(US$1.50, one hour).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Miskito Keys
Sitting 50km offshore, the Miskito Keys are a group of rocky isles rimmed with stilted
Miskito fishing villages. Their thatched over-water bungalows loom over crystalline tur-
quoise coves that double as an ideal lobster habitat. The historic first meeting between the
British pirate Captain Sussex Camock and his future Miskito allies took place here in
1633. It's still a haven for seafaring bad guys, so if you see any boats with Colombian
plates, look the other way.
Unlike the Pearl Keys further south, this is a cultural rather than beach destination -
very few of the islands have any sand at all. Most are pure rock with the odd bit of vegeta-
tion. But a visit to this isolated community sticking out of the ocean is an absolutely re-
markable experience. It's possible to rent traditional wooden canoes from the fishers to
explore the area.
There are no hotels or restaurants in the keys, and just one part-time guesthouse, at the
Acopio Knight, affectionately known as 'Mirkiki' (Miskito for 'American') for the own-
er's gringolike appearance. Make reservations at Intur in Bilwi. You can also rent a ham-
mock in a private home. Either way you should bring your own food, water and plenty of
insect repellent.
Amica in Bilwi arranges overnight visits for US$500 for six visitors, a large chunk of
which goes toward transportation costs. Transport in a large, fast
panga
for up to 12 will
cost you around US$800 round trip; Intur is able to recommend responsible captains.
