Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
SAN JUAN DE LIMAY
San Juan de Limay's cobblestone and brick streets seemingly appear from the dust 44km west of
Estelí to form a precious country town, known for its stone carvers and surrounded by soaring
peaks. Look for the enlightened
gorda
(pudgy lady); she's the town's signature symbol. Most of-
ten she's carved from
marmolina
(soapstone), a heavy rock that is mined in nearby Cerro Tipis-
cayán and carved and sanded in home workshops until it shines. The best gallery,
Taller Casco
Dablia
(
8am-6pm)
, is located behind the school opposite the town
8842-5162, 2719-5228;
square.
The road to Limay branches off the Panamericana north of Estelí near the community of La
Sirena. Buses leave the Cotran Norte in Estelí for Limay (US$2, two hours) five times daily.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Condega
POP 9900 / ELEV 560M
Dyed a deep terra-cotta, scarred proudly by revolution and surrounded by gorgeous, fores-
ted hills, Condega translates from the indigenous Náhuatl as 'the place of the potters.'
You'll see their wares in a museum and at a famed factory shop on the outskirts, but if
terra-cotta doesn't get you going, then check out that Somoza-era bomber shot down here
in 1979 and reassembled on a hilltop. Talk about spoils of war.
Sights & Activities
Condega's parque central is actually at its extreme southern end, opposite
El Templo Parro-
quial de Condega
. The church gets packed December 11 and 12 for the
Virgin of Guadalupe
festival
. Come a few days later for the
Feria del Patio
, when local women dress up as
Mother Nature - in dresses made of corn husks and medicinal plants - and throw a huge
party.
Across from the park, the
Museo Arqueológico Julio César Salgado
( 2715-2330; Parque
Central; admission US$0.30; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)
is packed with ceramic bowls,
studded incense burners, and stone tools dating back to AD 300. A map in the corner
marks some 60 unexcavated or partially excavated archaeological sites in the area.
The best new stuff can be found at the
Taller de Cerámica Ducualí Grande
(
2715-2418;
9am-5pm)
, a collective of women who sell their fine work
Restaurante Guanacaste, 1km O;
