Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
as equals until 1680. Flexing their rebuilt military muscle, the Spanish forced 12,000 indi-
genous inhabitants of Subtiava to become part of León, basically relegating them to slave
labor. Tensions simmered for two generations, until a police crackdown in 1725 inspired a
revolt. Although the insurrection was violently shut down by the Spaniards, Barrio Sub-
tiava was able to remain a separate entity until 1902, when it was finally, officially, an-
nexed to the city. The key word being 'officially.'
It's a solid 20-minute walk or US$0.70 taxi ride to Subtiava from the León cathedral, or
you can take one of the covered trucks (US$0.18) plying the streets. Catch a Subtiava-
bound truck at the southwest corner of the Parque Central (in front of Sandinista
headquarters) and yell 'Catedral Subtiava' as they haul you inside, probably while the
truck is still moving. Hang on!
Iglesia Parroquial de San Juan Bautista de Subtiava
(13 Av SO)
The Subtiava neighborhood is centered at this church, located about 1km west
of the León cathedral. It's better known as 'Catedral Subtiava,' and is the oldest intact
church in the city. Built in the 1530s and reconstructed in 1710, its relatively plain beige
facade and precious wood interior is largely unadorned; even the struts are there to stabil-
ize the structure during earthquakes.
There are two exceptions: spirals outside, and an extraordinary sun icon mounted to the
typical arched timber roof, pay homage to deities far older than the Spanish conquest.
CHURCH
Ermita de San Pedro
This church, two blocks east and one block south of San Juan Bautista, was constructed
between 1706 and 1718, and is considered one of the best examples of primitive baroque
style in Nicaragua. This means that it's almost unadorned, save for three brick crosses in-
laid into the adobe.
CHURCH
Ruinas Iglesia Santiago
Well signed 1½ blocks away from San Juan Bautista, this church was (according to local
legend) cursed by
duendes
(fairies), and by the looks of it the curse worked. Enter through
the corrugated-tin gate and ask the family there if it's OK to cross their front yard; they
may ask for a few córdobas. The architecture is still obvious - and the bell tower still
standing - and makes for an interesting wander.
CHURCH
Iglesia Veracruz
CHURCH
