Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
VOLCÁN CONCEPCIÓN'S EXPLOSIVE MOOD SWINGS
She knows she's special: Volcán Concepción is Central America's most symmetrical and argu-
ably loveliest volcano, not to mention one of its most active and dangerous. Concepción roared
back to life the same year that Krakatoa blew, in 1883, after centuries of hosting gentle cloud
forests around her now gray and smoking craters.
The fiery flow seems cyclical. In 1921 ash gave way to glowing red, and the following year
lava and boulders were tossed out with explosions heard in Granada. In 1944 ash falls as far as
Rivas were just a warning; six months later lava flows consumed hectares of crops. In 1957
tongues of flame 15m high leapt from the summit following months of ashy exhalation. President
Somoza sent boats to evacuate the island - not one person left, and not one person died. And al-
though no lava burst forth, ash inaugurated another two years of activity between 1983 and 1985.
In late 2005, in her first tantrum since the revolution, Concepción showered ash over Rivas,
and guides were excitedly explaining that it 'smelled like lava' at the top. Volcano treks were cut
short and everybody looked up a lot more than usual, but in the end there was no grand spectacle.
In the 2007, 2009 and 2012 explosions there was more rumbling, smoke and ash, but again, no
real drama. That said, you can bet that we haven't heard the last from this fiery madam yet.
Around Volcán Concepción
This has been the more populous side of the island (despite the looming, active volcano
overhead) since the Chorotega arrived, and remains so today.
ALTAGRACIA VIA SAN MARCOS
There are no real tourist facilities along the northern route between Moyogalpa and Al-
tagracia, although the trailheads for both La Concha and La Flor, which summit Concep-
ción, leave from the towns of the same name. La Flor also has a nice beach. Several ar-
chaeological sites are rumored to be located near San Marcos.
PUNTA JESÚS MARÍA
About half an hour by bicycle from Moyogalpa, this well-signed sand spit stretches out in-
to the lake for more than 1km at the height of the dry season, when lake levels drop and
reveal what was once a natural dock for indigenous fishermen. It's still used the same way
today, with the addition of a few ramshackle restaurants that may or may not be open.
ESQUIPULAS
A kilometer or so down the road from the turnoff to Punta Jesús María, this little town is
unremarkable, except that it is home to the
Galería de Arte Carlos Vargas
