Granada - Nicaragua - page 196

Or head west on Calle Real Xalteva, which once connected the Spanish town of Granada to its
much older indigenous neighbor, Xalteva. Four blocks west of the Parque Central, you'll pass
Iglesia de La Merced ( Click here ), considered the most beautiful of Granada's churches. Just
south of the main road is the poorly signed Casa Natal Sor María Romero Meneses
OFFLINE MAP , where a small collection of artifacts and original writings mark the birthplace
of Central America's first official saint.
The old indigenous neighborhood, now wholly assimilated, is marked by Iglesia de Xal-
teva OFFLINE MAP , the attractive 19th-century church that houses La Virgen de la Asunción.
Across the street is shady Parque Xalteva , with rough stone columns and overgrown ambi-
ence. Continuing west, you'll pass another gorgeous little church, La Capilla María Auxili-
adora OFFLINE MAP , worth a look for its beautiful pastel interior and a statue of a particularly
stern-looking nun with a pair of tacked-on eyeglasses.
If you've come this far, it's only four more blocks to Fortaleza La Polvora ( Click here ),
where you can climb to the top of the guard tower for the best view in town.
Las Isletas
An easy morning or afternoon trip from Granada takes you by boat to this miniature ar-
chipelago of 365 (OK, maybe fewer) tiny tropical islands. Along the way you'll spot rare
birds, colorful flowers and some interesting indigenous fauna - keep your eye out for os-
prey, kingfishers, caimans and howler monkeys (along the mainland). Another highlight
are the privately owned islands that would make tremendous evil lair, and lunch at the
handful of island hotels and restaurants.
There's even a Spanish fortress. Castillo San Pablo was built in 1784 and has great views
of Granada and Volcán Mombacho, plus a fine swimming hole nearby.
Most tours also pass Isla de los Monos (Monkey Island), where the spider and Capuchin
monkey residents brought here by a veterinarian living on a nearby island are friendly but
may run off with your picnic lunch.
Formed 10,000 years ago when very visible Volcán Mombacho exploded into its cur-
rent ragged silhouette, these islands were once one of the poorest neighborhoods in
Granada, and some are still home to impoverished families, who in general have no offi-
cial property rights. They are being gradually supplanted by the beautiful homes of folks
like the Pellas family (Flor de Caña owners), former president Chamorro and lots of ex-
pats in paradise. Want to join them? There are plenty of 'For Sale' signs, and your guide
knows all the prices.