Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Diriá
boasts Mirador el Boquete, the mellower, less-touristed overlook of Laguna de
Apoyo, where views include a handful of
bar-restaurants
(dishes US$4 to US$6), which
get packed with
festejeros
(party people) on weekends.
From the lookout, there's a steep, half-hour trail to the bottom, where a muddy little
beach offers access to the bright-blue water for swimming. This viewpoint is no more dif-
ficult to visit than Catarina's: from Granada, take any Niquinohomo-bound bus (US$0.50,
every 30 minutes), which will stop in front of 1650 Parroquia San Pedro, in the city cen-
ter. It's a 2km walk or US$0.30
moto
ride to the lookout.
This unassuming
church
, by the way, marks the spot where Cacique Diriangén, chief of
the Dirian peoples at the time of the Spanish conquest, first met conquistador Gil
González Dávila, on April 17, 1523. Unlike Nicarao, Diriangén didn't trust the new-
comers and opted to ignore their three-day deadline to become a Christian. Diriangén at-
tacked, which in retrospect was the best course of action, and today both of these towns -
as well as Diriamba in Carazo - are named for the indomitable
cacique
(chief). Dotted
around town are sculptures of the man, always ready.
Enchanting
Diriomo
has long been known as the
Witch Capital of the Meseta
.
Most healers work out of their homes, which are unsigned. Ask at the
alcaldía
(mayor's
office).
Diriomo is also famous for its
cajetas,
rich fruit-flavored sweets most famously avail-
able at
Casa de Cajetas
(cajetas US$1-2)
; the day's flavors are posted on the wall. They're
also sold elsewhere in town and along the highway. The town is also known for its
chicha
bruja
(an alcoholic corn beverage) and even stiffer
calavera del gato
('skull of the cat';
drink at your own risk).
Iglesia Nuestra Señora de Candelaria
is the perfect centerpiece for
this witchy place, with rather Gothic stone walls and an extra-interesting collection of
saints.
There's no lodging in either town. The best eating in Diriá is at the
mirador
restaurants.
Buses leave almost hourly from the parque central for Mercado Huembes in Managua
(US$0.80) and every 40 minutes for Masaya (US$0.50). If you're in a rush (or heading
south), make your way out onto the highway and flag down any passing bus.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Niquinohomo
POP 7500
