Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
two decks that can move independently. The lower deck is designed for
walkers, cyclists, and railroad traffic, while the upper level is for motor-
ized traffic and light rail.
At the far (east) end of the bridge, zigzag your way right, to ground
level, to link with the Eastbank Esplanade.
Eastbank Esplanade, Portland's other long-and-skinny riverside green-
way, is perhaps best loved for the views it provides of Tom McCall
Waterfront Park. Which isn't to say it lacks its own charms. But its
proximity to highways and the constraints of geography—it fits rather
snugly into the thin space that has been allotted for it—mean there isn't
much greenery to pretty up the path. It's kind of utilitarian, which
doesn't bother the joggers and cyclists who use it one bit. Besides, the
views across the river are glorious, and the esplanade is attractive in its
own Gattaca -esque way. The walkway was dedicated to former Mayor
Vera Katz (who fought for the park and is primarily responsible for its
construction) in 2004. It's 1.5 miles long, extending from the Steel
Bridge to the Hawthorne Bridge. The walkway is illuminated at night,
which is particularly great during winter when it gets dark early (and
light late). A 1,200-foot section floats out over the water, lending the
esplanade a romantic, marina-like feel. It's also an environmental asset:
part of the trail doubles as a water-treatment system, filtering runoff
from I-5 before it gets to the river. Public art installations are found at
several points along the trail—beneath the Morrison Bridge, look for
Echo Gate, a copper sculpture meant to mirror downtown Portland's
historic architecture. Another favorite is Ghost Ship, an impressive
work in glass, copper, and steel.
Follow the esplanade all the way to its end at the Hawthorne Bridge,
winding your way up the circular path onto the bridge. The Hawthorne
is the only vertical-lift bridge in North America that's older than the
Steel Bridge. If you commute with any frequency between downtown
and Southeast Portland, you may be convinced that the bridge is per-
petually being raised, and in fact it does lift up around 200 times a
month. Aside from making way for tall river traffic, the bridge needs to
move at least once every 8 hours in order to keep its gears from sticking.
(Don't worry—if you're walking across, you'll have plenty of warning
before it goes up.) As you walk across the seams in the panels that form
the pedestrian walkway, look down for a little dose of vertigo.
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