THE JULIAN ALPS - Croatia and Slovenia - page 967

$ Tourist Farm Pri Plajerju is on a picturesque plateau at the edge of Trenta (the first
town at the bottom of the Vrši č Pass road). Run by the Pretner family (gregarious Marko is
a park ranger, shy Stanka is “the boss”), this organic farm raises sheep and rents five apart-
ments in three buildings separate from the main house. As the So č a Valley doesn't have
many tourist farms, this is one of your best options if you want to stay at one. However,
its location deeper in the mountains makes it a bit less convenient for side-tripping—it's 30
minutes to Bovec, and an hour to Kobarid (July-Aug: Db-€45-55, Tb-€55-65, Qb-€68-78;
Sept-June: Db-€40-50, Tb-€50-60, Qb-€63-70; price depends on size, breakfast-€7, dinner-
€11—availablesomebutnotallnights;watchforsignstotheleftaftercomingoverthepass
and going through the village of Trenta, Trenta 16a; tel. [phone], mobile [phone],
www.eko-plajer.com , [e-mail] ).
Eating in Bovec
Inexplicably, little Bovec's restaurants tend to charge a cover of €1-1.50—a greedy practice
otherwise rare in Slovenia, but perhaps influenced by the town's proximity to Italy.
Martinov Hram, run by the Berginc family, has an inviting outdoor terrace under a
grapetrellis.Inside,thenicelytraditionaldecorgoeswellwithregionalspecialtieswithafo-
cus on sheep (good homemade bread, €7-12 pastas, €8-20 main courses, daily 10:00-23:00
exceptclosedMoninOct-May;onthemainroadthroughBovec,justbeforethemainsquare
on the right at Trg Golobarskih Žrtev 27; tel. [phone]).
Letni Vrt isbig,withanoutdoorterracefacingBovec'smainintersection,andsprawling
indoordiningrooms—includinganicewintergardenthat'sinvitingoncolddays.Themenu
is,likewise,almostcomicallylengthy—I'dstickwiththegoodandaffordablepizzas(€7-11
pizzas and pastas, €9-20 main dishes, daily 11:00-23:00, Fri-Sun only in winter, Trg Golob-
arskih Žrtev 1, tel. [phone]).
Dobra Vila, also a recommended hotel, is the only place in town for an elegant, upscale
meal of thoughtfully presented international cuisine with local flair. It's smart to call ahead
(€36 fixed-price dinner for non-guests, daily 19:00-22:00, see contact information earlier).
Bovec Connections
From Bovec by Bus to: Kobarid (4-6day,30minutes), Ljubljana (directoverscenicVrši č
Pass: 2/day July-Aug, 1/day Sat-Sun only June and Sept, none off-season, 4.25 hours; some
additional buses may go over Vrši č Pass to Kranjska Gora, where you can change to other
destinations; otherwise less scenic via Idrija).