Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ing Mount Triglav. Paralleling the road on the left is a “rails-to-trails” bike path—converted
from an old railway bed—that loops from here through Italy and Austria, allowing bikers to
connect three countries in one day. On the right, watch for the statue of Jakob Aljaž, who
actuallyboughtTriglav,backwhensuchathingwaspossible(he'spointingathispurchase).
Ten minutes later, in Gozd Martuljek, you'll cross a bridge and enjoy a great head-on view
of Špik Mountain.
Kranjska Gora was once Yugoslavia's leading winter resort, and remains popular with
Croatian skiers. As every Slovene and Croatian wants a ski bungalow here, it has some of
the highest property values in the country. Entering Kranjska Gora, you'll see a turnoff to
theleftmarkedfor Bovec and Vrši č .Thisleadsuptothepass,butwintersportsfanaticsmay
first want to take a 15-minute detour to see the biggest ski jump in the world, a few miles
ahead (stay straight through Kranjska Gora, then turn left at signs for Planica , the last stop
before the Italian border; you'll likely pay €5 to drive in and see it, or you can park before
the payment booth and walk in).
Everyfewyears,tensofthousandsofsportsfansflockheretowatchtheski-flyingworld
championships. This is where a local boy was the first human to fly more than 100 meters
on skis. Today's competitors routinely set new world records (currently 784 feet—that's 17
seconds in the air). Nearby, you may see a newly built Nordic center, used as a home base
for a wide range of winter sports. From the ski jump, you're a few minutes' walk from Italy
or Austria. This region—spanning three nations—lobbied unsuccessfully under the name
Senza Confini (Italian for “without borders”) to host the 2006 Winter Olympics. This philo-
sophy is in tune with the European Union's vision for a Europe of regions, rather than na-
tions.
Back in Kranjska Gora, follow the signs for Vrši č . Before long, you'll officially enter
Triglav National Park and come to the first of this road's 50 hairpin turns (24 up, then 26
down)—each one numbered and labeled with the altitude in meters. Notice that the turns
are cobbled to provide better traction. If the drive seems daunting, remember that 50-seat
tour buses routinely conquer this pass...if they can do it, so can you. Better yet, imagine the
bicyclists who regularly pedal to the top. The best can do it in less than 30 minutes—faster
than driving.
After switchback #8, with the cute waterfall, park your car on the right and hike up the
stairs on the left to the little Russian chapel. This road was built during World War I by
at least 10,000 Russian POWs of the Austro-Hungarian Empire to supply the So č a Front.
The POWs lived and worked in terrible conditions, and several hundred died of illness and
exposure.OnMarch8,1916,anavalanche thundered downthemountains, killing hundreds
more workers. This chapel was built where the final casualty was found. Take a minute to
payyourrespectstothemenwhobuilttheroadyou'reenjoyingtoday.It'saRussianOrtho-
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