LAKE BLED - Croatia and Slovenia - page 913

leftovers. They take yesterday's cake, add rum, milk, custard, and raisins, and top it
off with whipped cream and chocolate syrup.
There's also prekmurska gibanica —or just gibanica (gee-bah-NEET-seh) for
short.OriginatingintheHungariancornerofthecountry, gibanica isanearthypastry
filled with poppy seeds, walnuts, apples, and cheese, and drizzled with rum.
Yet another dessert is the very traditional potica (poh-TEET-seh), a walnut roll
that's usually eaten at Christmastime. While it's rare to find this in bakeries, the café
on the island in the lake sells several varieties.
Dessertsaretypicallyenjoyedwithalake-and-mountainsview—thebestspotsare
the terrace at Vila Prešeren, the Panorama restaurant by Grand Hotel Toplice, and the
terrace across from Hotel Park (figure around €5 for cake and coffee at any of these
places). For a more local (but non-lake view) setting, consider Šmon Slaš č i č arna
(only slightly cheaper; see next page).
Pizzeria Rustika, in the Old Town, offers wood-fired pizzas and salads. Its upstairs ter-
race is relaxing on a balmy evening (€6-10 pizzas, daily 12:00-23:00, service can be slow
when it's busy, Riklijeva cesta 13, tel. [phone]).
Supermarket: The Mercator grocery store, in the commercial center, has the makings
for a bang-up picnic. They sell pre-made sandwiches for about €3, or will make you one to
order (point to what you want). This is a great option for hikers and budget travelers (Mon-
Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 7:00-15:00, Sun 8:00-12:00). There's another location closer to the Old
Town and castle (Mon-Sat 7:00-20:00, Sun 8:00-16:00).
Dessert: While tourists generally gulp down their cream cakes on a hotel restaurant's
lakefront terrace, local residents favor the desserts at Šmon Slaš č i č arna (a.k.a. the “Brown
Bear,” for the bear on the sign). It's nicely untouristy, but lacks the atmosphere of the
lakeside spots (€2-3 cakes, daily 7:30-21:00, near bus station at Grajska cesta 3, tel. 04/
574-1616).
Splurge Restaurant Near Bled
Vila Podvin, in the village of Mošnje (about a 15-minute drive from Lake Bled, just past
Radovljica),hasgainedabigculinaryreputationinrecentyears.Thetalentedcelebritychef,
UrošŠ (who has hosted some popular Slovenian cooking shows), prides himself on melding
traditional Slovenian recipes with modern techniques and flavors. The dressy but inviting
interior and fine garden are equally enjoyable places to dine. Their €15 three-course lunch
special—available until 15:00—is a nice way to affordably sample their menu. Reserva-
tions are smart (fixed-price meals-€35/4 courses, €55/6 courses; otherwise €10-15 starters,