Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
In Krakovo
(See “Ljubljana” map, here .)
The Krakovo district—just south of the city center, where garden patches nearly outnumber
simple homes—is a pleasant area to wander. It's also home to a trio of tasty restaurants. If
the nearby Jože Ple č nik House is open during yourvisit, youcould combine yourvisit there
with a meal at one of these options.
Pri Škofu (“By the Bishop”) is a laid-back, informal place with appealing outdoor seat-
ing, a nondescript modern interior, and a focus on freshness, serving international cuisine
with a Slovenian flair. This hidden gem is deliciously memorable; reserve ahead (creative
€3 soups, €8 lunches, €9-11 pastas, €15-22 main courses at dinner, homemade €4 desserts,
Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00, Re č na 8, tel. 01/426-4508).
Manna, with artfully presented, seasonal Slovenian-Mediterranean fusion cuisine, sits
along the pleasant Gradaš č ica canal. The interior is pure Secession—the Gustav Klimt-era,
early20th-century,gold-accentedViennesestylethatwassoinfluentialinLjubljana.Iprefer
the more artistic, café-like downstairs to the stuffy upstairs dining room, but the seating
out front is hard to beat on a nice day (€11 lunch special, otherwise €9 starters, €18-24
main dishes, Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00, Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 11:00-18:00, Eipprova 1A, tel. 05/
992-2308).
Harambaša is the closest thing to a ticket to Sarajevo. Serving Balkan grilled meats,
this popular-with-students eatery has Bosnian-flavored decor, old pictures, and cuisine re-
miniscent of the Bosnian capital. For a refresher on the meat dishes, see “Balkan Flavors”
on here . Themenuislimited,whichmakesorderingeasy.Theirhandy€7 pola-pola combo-
plate—with lotsa meat combined with chopped onions, kajmak (a soft cheese spread), and
lepinja (pita bread)—makes for a simple but filling lunch. For desert, sample the Bosnian
coffee (a high-octane brew with “mud” at the bottom) and baklava. Vegetarians need not
apply (€5-7 main courses, Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00, Sat 12:00-22:00, Sun 12:00-20:00, Vrtna
8, mobile 041-843-106).
Coffee, Tea, and Treats
(See “Ljubljana” map, here .)
Riverfront Cafés: Enjoying a coffee, beer, or ice-cream cone along the Ljubljanica River
embankment (between the Triple and Cobblers' bridges) is Ljubljana's single best experi-
ence—worth ▲▲▲ . Tables spill into the street, and some of the best-dressed, best-looking
students on the planet happily fill them day and night. (A common question from first-time
visitors to Ljubljana: “Doesn't anybody here have a job?”) This is some of the top people-
watching in Europe. Rather than recommend a particular place (they're all about the same),
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