Sights in Sarajevo - Croatia and Slovenia - page 775

andstarters,13-20-KMmaindishes,daily10:00-1:00inthemorning,canbeclosedforspe-
cial events—consider calling ahead, Franjeva č ka 15, tel. [phone]).
Avlija (“Courtyard”) sits in an unassuming, untouristy neighborhood a short walk above
Maršala Tita street (and about 10-15 minutes from the Old Town). This very local-feeling
hangout fills its namesake courtyard with bright, funky colors, rustic wooden tables, and
happy drinkers and diners. The cuisine is a mix of Bosnian and international—affordable
and very good (6-12-KM pastas and salads, 10-22-KM meat dishes, Mon-Sat 8:00-23:00,
closed Sun, Sumbula Avde 2, tel. [phone]).
Metropolis is a mod, trendy-feeling, split-level café serving coffee, cakes, and good, ec-
lectic, international food in the modern part of town, along Maršala Tita (5-10-KM sand-
wiches,salads,wraps,pastas,andpizzas,13-KMwokdishes,daily8:00-23:00,MaršalaTita
21, tel. [phone]).
Cafés
(See “Sarajevo Hotels & Restuarants” map, here .)
Being at the intersection of two cultures famous for enjoying a cup of coffee (Viennese
and Ottoman), Sarajevo has more than its share of cozy cafés. Explore the streets—both
in the Old Town and in the modern areas—to find just the right spot. For Ottoman atmo-
sphere in the Baš č aršija, peruse your options along both Sara č i (Leathermakers' Street) and
Bravadžiluk (Locksmiths' Street)—or just cut to the chase and head for the Mori ć a Han
courtyard (described earlier). For Viennese-style splendor, you'll stumble on many fine op-
tions,butlikelynoneasimpressiveasthechandelieredcaféinsidethe Hotel Europe. Many
moderncaféslinelivelyFerhadijastreet,whichisgreatforpeople-watching.Foraclaustro-
phobic,clutteredoldroomthatfeelslikethehipsterversionof Antiques Roadshow ,headfor
the quirky, wildly decorated Goldfish (Kaptol 5). And if you're nostalgic for the Red old
days, it's obligatory to visit Tito Café behind the Historical Museum (see here ).
Sarajevo Connections
From Sarajevo by Bus to: Mostar (abouthourly,2.5hours), Split (6/dayinsummer,4/day
inwinter,7.5-8hours), Dubrovnik (4/dayinsummer,1/dayinwinter,5-6.5hours;includes
a night bus in summer only), Zagreb (4/day, 8 hours, includes night bus), Ljubljana (1/
daybutnoteveryday,sometimesovernight,11hours).Most(butnotall)busesareoperated
by Centrotrans/Eurolines ( www.centrotrans.com ) ; the general number for bus information
at the main station is tel. [phone]. A few additional buses depart from the predomin-
antly Serb area of East Sarajevo (info tel. [phone]).
By Train: Sarajevo sits in the middle of a train line that goes south to Mostar and Plo č e
(on the Croatian coast between Split and Dubrovnik), and north to Zagreb (2.5 hours to