Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Directly across this bridge is the Grbavica neighborhood, the closest Bosnian Serb
forces got to the city center during the siege—which is why the area we just passed through
was so deadly. The snipers were just a couple of blocks away.
• Turn right and stroll along the river for a couple of blocks, along the...
Woodrow Wilson Promenade (Vilsonovo Šetalište): Though this was a deadly no-
man's-land just two decades ago, today it's a pleasant, tree-lined riverside park. But here in
Sarajevo, even a pretty park has a sinister edge: The trees here survived only because they
were too close to enemy lines to safely cut down for fuel.
Stow your guidebook and enjoy this romantic walk for a while. Soon you reach the Ars
Aevi Bridge, designed by Paris' Pompidou Centre architect Renzo Piano, who has also
drawn up plans for the nearby future home of Sarajevo's contemporary art museum.
At this bridge, turn right and head away from the river. You'll pass through a field that's
the future site for the Ars Aevi contemporary art museum ( www.arsaevi.ba ) . Just beyond
that, tucked into the back wall of the Historical Museum, are the outdoor tables of the Tito
Café. This kitschy hangout celebrates the dictator of communist Yugoslavia with preachy
red flags, lots of old photos, camouflage stools, and a bust of the beloved leader, as well
as an old jeep and other Yugoslav military vehicles scattered out front. (The tank you'll see
out front is a WWII-era relic, which was actually put into use again during the siege.) The
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