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ily better decorated, than the mosques in downtown Mostar (for a description of a typical
Bosnian mosque interior, see here ) . A photo on the porch shows the building circa 1993,
destroyed to its foundation.
Continue up the stairs behind the mosque, which lead steeply all the way up to the fort-
ress, which was originally built in the 15th century by Hungarian King Mátyás Corvinus
(who pushed the Ottomans back, briefly reclaiming some territory—including this re-
gion—for the forces of Christian Europe). There's virtually nothing to see inside (the stairs
inside the tower are extremely steep and narrow—tread carefully), but the views are sensa-
tional.Thebestviewsarefromtheflatterraceoutfront.It'sclearjusthowstrategicthisloc-
ationis,withperfectviewsupanddowntheNeretvaValley,constrictedasitisherebetween
steep cliffs.
Stolac
One of the most historic spots in Herzegovina, Stolac (STOH-lats) was a cradle of early
Balkan civilization. Unless you're fascinated by archaeology, Stolac isn't worth a long de-
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