Sights in Mostar - Croatia and Slovenia - page 686

along the main road to reach Č apljina, where you'll turn right to go past Po č itelj (see here )
on your way into Mostar. Either way, Blagaj (see here ) is worth considering as a detour be-
fore ending in Mostar. (If you want to go to Me đ ugorje —see here —go through Č apljina
and follow signs.) For arrival tips in Mostar, see the end of the driving directions above.
Nevesinje Route: This longer, more remote, middle-of-nowhere routing takes about an
hour longer than the Stolac route. But if you're adventurous, it's a fun ride. From Trebin-
je, drive north toward Bile ć ko Lake —a vast, aquamarine lake you'll see on your right (the
Vikiovac Restaurant offers a great viewpoint). Then you'll go through the town of Bile ć a
( БиΛeћa ), turning west at the gloomy industrial town of Gacko ( Гaцко , with a giant coal
mine), and onward to the humble but proud little town of Nevesinje ( Нeвecињe ). From
Nevesinje, it's a quick drive up over the mountains, then down into Mostar—passing spec-
tacular views of Herzog Stjepan's imposing castle over the town of Buna. Follow signs on
into Mostar.
Near Mostar
While Mostar has its share of attractions, there's also plenty to see within a short drive.
Ideally try to splice one or two of these stops into your trip between Mostar and the coast
(see my “Route Tips for Drivers,” earlier, for tips on linking them up).
Blagaj
Blagaj (BLAH-gai, rhymes with “pie”) was the historical capital of this region until the ar-
rivaloftheOttomans.ThisisthesiteofamountaincalledHum,whichistoppedbytheruins
of a hilltop castle that once belonged to Herzog (“Duke”) Stjepan, who gave Herzegovina
its name.
Deep in Blagaj is an impressive cliff face with a scenic house marking the source of the
BunaRiver.Thebuilding,calledthe Tekija, isaformermonasteryforTurkishdervishes(an
order that emphasizes poverty and humility, famous for the way they whirl in a worshipful
trance).Builtinthe15thcenturyandrecentlyrestored,thehouseissurroundedbyamodern
visitors center complex with a café, gift shop, and coin-op WCs. It's free to enter and look
around the Tekija, which feels similar to the tourable Turkish houses in Mostar (for a de-
scription, see here ) . You'll take your shoes off and tiptoe across a patchwork of small rugs
from room to room. Gazing out the windows at the towering cliff stretching to heaven, and
hearingtheconstant,steadyflowofwater,it'seasytoimaginehowthiscouldbeconsidered
a very spiritual place.