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on the square, a smattering of humble open-air market stalls sell local produce (Saturday
is the biggest market day, but there's always some action). There's a welcoming TI on
the square, but in this small-time town, they don't have much to do (Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00,
Sat 9:00-15:00, closed Sun, shorter hours off-season, Jovana Du č i ć a b.b., tel. 059/273-410,
www.trebinjeturizam.com ). From the bottom of the square, you can stroll through the forti-
fied gate into the sleepy, almost completely untouristy Old Town (called Kaštel), with more
cafés and the town mosque (vengefully demolished during the war, but later rebuilt). The
Trebišnjica River is spanned by the graceful, Ottoman-built Arslanagica Bridge. Overlook-
ingthetownfromitshilltopperchisthestrikingOrthodoxChurchofNovaGra č anica,built
to resemble the historically important Gra č anica Monastery in Kosovo. If you have time,
drive up to the church's viewpoint terrace for great views over Trebinje and the valley, and
stepinside thechurchtoimmerse yourselfinagorgeouslyvibrantworldofOrthodoxicons.
From Trebinje, you have two options for getting to Mostar: The faster route via Stolac,
or the very rugged slower route via Nevesinje.
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