Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Croatia may be Europe's second most ardently Catholic country (after Poland). Under
communism,religionwasdownplayedandmanypeoplegaveupthehabitofattendingMass
regularly. But as the wars raged in the early 1990s, many Croatians rediscovered religion.
YoumaybesurprisedbyhowmanypeopleyouseeworshippinginCroatia'schurchestoday.
In the Yugoslav era, Croatia was flooded with tourists—both European and Americ-
an—who fell in love with its achingly beautiful beaches and coves. In its heyday, Croatia
hosted about 10 million visitors a year, who provided the country with about a third of its
income. But then, for several years after the war, Croatia floundered. Just a decade ago, the
streets of Dubrovnik were empty, lined with souvenir shops tended by desperate-looking
vendors. But in the last few years, locals are breathing a sigh of relief as the number of vis-
itors returns to pre-war highs. With astonishing speed, Croatia is becoming one of Europe's
top holiday destinations.
Even so, the standards for service (at restaurants, hotels, and so on) may be lower than
you might expect. Service can be relaxed... too relaxed by American standards, thanks to
the local philosophy of malo po malo, “little by little”—the easygoing, no-worries, mañana
Dalmatian lifestyle. While you'll meet plenty of wonderfully big-hearted Croatians, many
ofmyreaderscharacterizetheCroatianwaitersorhotelreceptioniststhey'veencounteredas
“gruff” or even “rude.” Be prepared for what I call the “Croatian Shrug”—a simple gesture
meaning,“Don'tknow,don'tcare.”Ithelpsmetomakeanattitude adjustment whenIcross
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