Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
In this chapter, I've also included some nearby attractions in Herzegovina that are worth
tryingtosqueezeintoyouritinerary.NearMostarisatrioofothermostlyBosniaksights:the
river spring and whirling dervish house at Blagaj, the striking fortified hill town of Po
č
itelj,
and workaday Stolac, which sits upon some very impressive history. I've also included
the top Croat sight in Bosnia-Herzegovina: Me
đ
ugorje, where Catholic pilgrims flock from
around the world to hear tales of a Virgin Mary apparition. All of these places are within a
half-hour's drive of Mostar, and all are more or less on the way between Mostar and coastal
destinations.
While a visit to Mostar was depressing not that long ago, the city gets more uplifting
all the time: Mostarians are rebuilding at an impressive pace, tentatively re-integrating, and
working hard to make Mostar tourist-friendly. Before long, Mostar will reclaim its status
as one of the premier destinations in the former Yugoslavia. Visit now, while it still has its
rough-around-the-edges charm—you'll get to see it before it really takes off.
Becauseofitsculturalhairiness,adetourintoBosnia-Herzegovinafeelslikearealdeparture
from a Dalmatian vacation. And yet, Mostar is easier to reach from Dubrovnik or Split than
many popular Dalmatian islands (it's within a three-hour drive or bus ride from either city).
The vast majority of tourists in Mostar are day-trippers from the coast, which means the
Old Town is packed at midday, but empty in the morning and evening. You can get a good
feel for Mostar in just a few hours, but a full day—and, ideally, an overnight—gives you
time to linger and ponder. My self-guided walk provides a framework for a visit of any dur-
ation. With extra time, be sure to venture to the western part of the city, which most tourists
miss.
You have three basic options for getting here: take a package tour from Dalmatia; rent
a car for a one-day side-trip into Mostar; or (my favorite) spend the night here en route
between Croatian destinations. To work a Mostar overnight into your itinerary, consider a
round-trip plan that takes you south along the coast, then back north via Bosnia-Herzegov-
ina (for example, Split-Hvar-Kor
č
ula-Dubrovnik-Mostar-back to Split). And if you're com-
ingtoMostar,keepinmindthatSarajevo(coveredinthenextchapter)isjustdowntheroad.
The destinations I've covered in this chapter are accessible from the Dalmatian Coast, but
non-drivers may have to get creative to connect the dots.
By Car:
Coming with your own car gives you maximum flexibility, and a number of
interesting routes connect Mostar to the coast (for detailed route information, see “Route
