Travel Reference
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shrine at Me đ ugorje. A longer trip from Dalmatia—but well worth the trek—is the Bosni-
an capital of Sarajevo, with a spectacular mountain-valley setting, a multilayered history,
powerful wartime stories, and a resilient populace of proud Sarajevans eager to show you
their fine city.
Bosnia is highly recommended as a detour—both geographical and cultural—from the
Croatian and Slovenian mainstream. Inquisitive visitors come away from a visit to Bosnia
with a more nuanced understanding of the former Yugoslavia. Practically speaking, Bosnia
offers lower prices and a warmer welcome than you'll find on the Croatian coast.
NervoustravelersmightbetemptedtogiveBosnia-Herzegovinaamiss.Thecountrycan
be unsettling, because of its in-your-face war damage and exotic mélange of cultures that
seems un-European. But to me, for exactly these reasons, Bosnia ranks alongside Croatia
and Slovenia as a rewarding destination. Overcome your jitters and dive in.
Bosnia-Herzegovina Almanac
Official Name: Bosna i Hercegovina (abbreviated “BiH”); the i means
“and”—Bosnia and Herzegovina (the country's two regions). For simplicity, I gen-
erally call the whole country “Bosnia” in this topic. “Bosna” (literally “running wa-
ter”) is the name of a major river here, while the tongue-twisting name “Herzegov-
ina” (hert-seh-GOH-vee-nah) comes from the German word for “dukedom” (Herzog
means “duke”).
Snapshot History: Bosnia-Herzegovina'searlyhistoryissimilartotherestofthere-
gion: Illyrians, Romans, and Slavs (oh, my!). In the late 15th century, Turkish rulers
from the Ottoman Empire began a 400-year domination of the country. Many of
the Ottomans' subjects converted to Islam, and their descendants remain Muslims
today. Bosnia-Herzegovina became part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1878,
then Yugoslavia after World War I, until it declared independence in the spring of
1992.Thebloodywarthatensuedcametoanendin1995.(Fordetails,seetheUnder-
standing Yugoslavia chapter.)
Population: About 3.9 million. (There were about 100,000 identified casualties
of the recent war, but many estimates of total casualties are double that number.)
Someone who lives in Bosnia-Herzegovina, regardless of ethnicity, is called a “Bos-
nian.” A southern Slav who practices Islam is called a “Bosniak.” Today, about half
ofallBosniansareBosniaks(Muslims),alittlemorethanathirdareOrthodoxSerbs,
and about 15 percent are Catholic Croats.
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