Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
stars, royalty, and dignitaries famously engaged in bidding wars to decide who'd be granted
access to the best suites: Whoever put the most money in a sealed envelope and slipped it
to the manager,won.(According to local legend, Sly Stallone'smoney talked.) Guests were
pampered—indulgednomatterhowoutrageoustheirrequests.SophiaLoren,KirkDouglas,
Doris Day, and Claudia Schiffer are just a few of the big names who basked on Sveti Ste-
fan's beaches.
By the late 2000s, Sveti Stefan had experienced a dramatic decline. Warfare in nearby
places (such as Dubrovnik and Kosovo) kept visitors away, its cachet faded, and the resort
grew a bit rough around the edges. Then the Indian company Aman Resorts swept in with
ambitiousplanstorestoretheislandtoitsformerstatusasoneoftheworld'smostexclusive,
crème-de-la-crème resorts (cheapest Db-€950 in high season,
www.amansvetistefan.com
)
.
These days, no-neck thugs guard the causeway, letting only guests (no exceptions) cross
over into the fantasy world of Sveti Stefan. If you're desperate to check it out, you can re-
serve a meal at the restaurant (€25/person minimum, but count on paying far more). If you
want to relax on the beaches flanking the causeway, most areas charge €30-50 per person
for the day, but there are a few free areas—ask the guard for pointers.
Even if you can't enter the peninsula, let your imagination run as you gaze upon it.
Strolling through the dead town, peeking through gates, visitors hope to spot a withered
old celebrity who forgot to go home. “Rooms” come with varying degrees of privacy (each
more expensive than the last): no fence, small fence, big fence. At the far end is the biggest
andmostfamous“suite,” whereguestshaveanentirecornerofthepeninsulatothemselves.
At the top of the peninsula is a big Russian Orthodox church and a smaller Serbian Ortho-
dox church—though both are little more than hotel decorations today.
Across the water from Sveti Stefan, on its own little cove, is one of Tito's former vaca-
tionvillas (Villa Milo
č
er,alsopartoftheAmanresort).Fromhere,youcanenjoythenewly
completed promenade that runs from the beach in front of the villa and to the next cove;
eventually, this path will let you stroll along the water all the way to Budva.
Getting to Sveti Stefan:
Sveti Stefan is just three miles beyond Budva. Coming around
the bay from Budva (following signs toward
Bar
), you'll pass above the peninsula on the
mainroad,watchingforthewell-markedpull-outontherightthatoffersclassicviews.After
snapping your photos, if you want to get closer, continue down and turn off to the right, fol-
lowing signs to
Hotel Sveti Stefan
; you can park in the pay lot (€1/hour) and walk along the
beach as far as the causeway.
From Sveti Stefan to Dubrovnik:
Figure1.5hourstotheCroatianborder(ifyougovia
Tivat—rather than Kotor—and use the shortcut ferry across the Bay of Kotor, described on
here
), then another 45 minutes to Dubrovnik.
