Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
1/day via Trebinje, both departing about the same time in the afternoon, 5.5 hours),
Zagreb
(daily at 14:45). Bus info: tel. 032/325-809,
www.autobuskastanicakotor.me
.
Although Montenegro is trying to cultivate a glitzy beach-break cachet, for most of its his-
tory it has been thought of as a rugged mountain kingdom. While the coast—the focus of
most of this chapter—was traditionally Venetian or Austrian, the real heart of Montenegro
beat behind the sheer wall of mountains rising up from that seafront. Romantics, caught up
in outdated Balkan fantasies, still think of this inland area as the “real” Montenegro.
While the Bay of Kotor is the most accessible and appealing part of the country, if you
have more time, consider a joyride up into the mountains. For a quick look at this area, the
easiest loop takes you to the historic capital of Cetinje—a dull little town in its own right,
but a fine excuse for a mountain drive. You could do this whole loop in about two and half
hours without stopping (about an hour from Kotor to Cetinje, then another hour to Budva,
then a half-hour back to Kotor), but if you want to stretch your legs in Njeguši or Cetinje,
allow more time.
The Road into the Mountains
TheroadtoCetinjetwistsyouupthemountainfacethatstretcheshighaboveKotor—it'san
incredibly scenic, white-knuckle drive.
From Kotor, leave town toward Budva (bearing left at the roundabout). At the edge of
Kotor, after the cemetery but before the big tunnel, take a right (marked for
Cetinje
) and
begin your ascent. Cresting the first hill, go left to get to Cetinje (also marked for
Njeguši
).
You'll wind up and up (past a small Roma encampment) on 25 numbered switchbacks. The
road is a souvenir from the Habsburg era (1884). While Venetian rule brought sea trade,
Austrian rule brought fortresses and infrastructure. After switchback #13, you'll pass an old
customs house marking the former border between the Austro-Hungarian Empire and the
Kingdom of Montenegro—a reminder that the coastline was not historically an integral part
of Montenegrin cultural identity. As you near the top, look across the canyon to the left to
spot the impossibly rough little donkey path that once was Cetinje's connection with the
coast...like atenuousumbilical cordtethering themountainous interior totheoutside world.
Asyoucrestthehill,thevegetation changes—you'rehighabovetheAdriatic,withcom-
manding views of Kotor and its bay (and great photo-op pull-outs; the best is just after
switchback #25). Continuing inland, you find yourself in another world: poor, insular, and
