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Then head back down, enjoying your reward: a downhill walk with head-on views of
the Bay of Kotor. On the way down, watch your step on the slippery-even-when-dry marble
stairs, highly polished by the feet of centuries of visitors. At the round terrace below the
church, you can head to the right (back the way you came); or, for a different path, head left
following powder magazine signs,thendown(right)atthefork.Theticket-sellerwarnedme
that he's often seen people wipe out on the very last step on their way down—so exhausted
after the demanding hike that they let their guard down.
Sleeping in Kotor
Kotorisadelightfultownandanenjoyableplacetospendthenight.(Givenitspopularityas
a cruise port, and among side-trippers from Dubrovnik, only a tiny fraction of visitors both-
er to sleep here.) However, the town has two big disadvantages: inexplicably high prices
(you'llsleepmoreaffordablyinDubrovnik)andlotsofnighttimenoise—itseemsthatevery
street in town has at least two or three bars, cranking their music until the wee hours. In
most towns, I take noise into consideration when recommending hotels—but here, I don't
even bother and just assume it'll be loud everywhere. While it's noisiest in summer, pack
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