Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
in thanks to God by survivors of the plague (it also serves as part of the town fortifica-
tions—described later).
Within the cathedral, the
nave
of the church is marginally interesting, with stout
columns; surviving Byzantine-style frescoes under the arches—all that's left of paintings
thatoncecoveredthechurch;andafine15th-centurysilver-and-goldaltarcoveredbyadel-
icate canopy.
But the best part is the
reliquary
upstairs. Find the stairs at the rear and walk up to the
chapel. Behind the Baroque altar (by Bernini's student Francesco Cabianca, whose work
we saw in Perast) and the screen are 48 different relics. In the center is St. Tryphon—his
bones in a silver casket and his head in the golden chalice to the right. In the small room
up the stairs, examine the fascinating icon of the Madonna and Child from the 15th century
(it's in a freestanding wooden frame with a crucified Jesus on the other side; you may have
to look around back to find it). The painting exemplifies this town's position as a bridge
betweenWesternandEasternChristianity:Thefaces,morelifelike,areWestern-style(Cath-
olic) Gothic; the stiff, elongated bodies are more Eastern (Orthodox) and Byzantine-style.
From here, take a slow walk around the upper gallery of the church to see its displays of
paintings, vestments, and other ecclesiastical items.
• Exit the church. Notice the recommended La Pasteria restaurant immediately across from
the cathedral, with Italian- and Serb-style fare and scenic al fresco tables. On the right, the
trees mark another recommended eatery, City Restaurant.
When you're ready to continue, face the cathedral facade and exit the square to your left
(down the street near City Restaurant). In a block, you'll wind up on a little square that's
home to the...
Maritime Museum of Montenegro (Pomorski Muzej Crne Gore)
Like so many Adriatic towns, Kotor's livelihood is tied to the sea. This humble museum
explores that important heritage. As you climb the stairway, notice the evocative maps and
etchingsofoldKotor.Portraitsofsaltyswashbucklers,traditional costumes,and98coatsof
armsrepresentingaristocraticfamilieswhohavelivedhere(ringingthemainroomupstairs)
are all reminders of the richness of Kotor's history. You'll see a display of rifles and swords
(somewithfunornamentaldecorationsillustratingtheartofkilling)andlotsofmodelships.
The museum is housed in the Gregorina Palace, one of dozens of aristocratic mansions that
dottheOldTown—yetanotherreminderofthehistoricallyhighconcentrationofwealthand
power in this little settlement.
Cost and Hours:
€4, includes English audioguide; July-Aug Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00, Sun
9:00-13:00; mid-April-June and Sept-mid-Oct Mon-Fri 9:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 9:00-13:00;
mid-Oct-mid-April Mon-Fri 9:00-15:00, Sat-Sun 9:00-13:00; on Trg Grgurina, tel. 032/
304-720,
www.museummaritimum.com
.
