Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
cultural identity that defies many of the preconceived notions of the Balkans. Are they like
Serbs or Croats? Do they use the Cyrillic or the Roman alphabet? Do they worship the Ro-
man Catholic God or the Eastern Orthodox one? Yes, all of the above.
Since gaining independence in 2006, the Montenegrin coast has become a powerful
magnet for a very specific breed of traveler: millionaires from Russia (and, to a lesser
extent,SaudiArabia),whohavechosentoturnthisimpressionable,fledglingcountry—with
its gorgeous coastline—into their very own Riviera. The Tivat airport is jammed with
charter flights from Moscow, signs along the coast advertise Russian-language radio sta-
tions, and an extravagant luxury yacht marina is being built near Tivat (Porto Montenegro,
www.portomontenegro.com
)
. And so Montenegro finds itself in an awkward position: try-
ing to cultivate an image as a high-roller luxury paradise, while struggling to upgrade what
is—in places—a nearly Third World infrastructure. Glittering new €500-a-night boutique
hotels are built, then suffer power and water outages. It sometimes feels as if Montenegro
is skipping right past an important middle step in its tourist development (that of an on-the-
rise, moderately priced destination). I guess what I'm saying is...lower your expectations,
and don't expect a fancy facade and high prices to come with predictable quality.
Still, nothing can mar the natural beauty of Montenegro's mountains, bays, and forests.
For a look at the untamed Adriatic, a spin on the winding road around Montenegro's steep
and secluded Bay of Kotor is a must. The area's main town, also called Kotor, has been
protected from centuries of would-be invaders by its position at the deepest point of the
fjord—and by its imposing town wall, which scrambles in a zigzag line up the mountain
behind it. Wander the enjoyably seedy streets of Kotor, drop into some Orthodox churches,
and sip a coffee at an al fresco café.
