Sights in Dubrovnik - Croatia and Slovenia - page 518

Swissowner/chefGildascooks,whilehiswifeRužaandtheirstaffcheerfullyserveasteady
stream of return diners. This tiny place—which has been a reliable and affordable crowd-
pleaser for years—has just a few cramped indoor and outdoor tables. Even if you're not
a vegetarian, it's worth a visit; reserve the day ahead in peak season (35-45-kn starters,
65-85-kn main courses, Mon-Sat 11:30-22:00, closed Sun and Jan-Feb, on the restaurant-
clogged Prijeko street—near the Pile Gate end of the street, tel. [phone]).
Dalmatino offers some of the best traditional Dalmatian cooking in the city, combined
withafewmoderntwists.Thisisqualityfoodandattentiveserviceatpricesthatwon'tblow
your budget. South African-Croatian owner Robert prides himself on cooking each dish to
order; while this may take a few minutes longer, you can taste the results. While there are
only a few outdoor tables tucked along the alley, there's a spacious, classy-but-not-stuffy
dining room (50-160-kn pastas, 80-160-kn main dishes, daily 11:00-23:00, Miha Pracata 6,
tel. [phone], http://dalmatino-dubrovnik.com ) . Don't confuse Dalmatino's tables with
its neighbors'.
On the Market Square: Thesquarecalled Gunduli ć evapoljana, tucked twoshortblocks
from the Stradun, is filled with outdoor tables. Konoba Kamenice, a no-frills fish restaur-
ant, is a local institution offering inexpensive, fresh, and good meals on a charming market
square, as central as can be in the Old Town. On the limited menu, the seafood dishes are
excellent (try their octopus salad, even if you don't think you like octopus), while the few
non-seafood dishes are uninspired. Some of the waitstaff are notorious for their playfully
brusque service, but loyal patrons happily put up with it. Arrive early, or you'll have to wait
(45-75-kn main courses, daily 8:00-23:00, until 22:00 off-season, Gunduli ć eva poljana 8,
tel. [phone]).
Kopun, with picturesque seating on the big square in front of the Jesuit St. Ignatius
Church, serves up regional specialties from Dubrovnik and elsewhere in Croatia—all well-
explained in the menu. Several dishes make use of the restaurant's namesake, kopun —a
rooster that's castrated young and plumps up. While a bit pricey and new to the scene, this
place is off to a promising start (60-130-kn pastas and starters, 80-160-kn main courses,
daily 11:00-23:00, Poljana Ru đ era Boškovi ć a 7, tel. [phone],
www.restaurantkopun.com ).
Azur, tucked high inside the City Walls (near the two Buža cocktail bars), offers relief
totravelers needingabreakfromthetypical Croatian menu.Thesort-of-Asian-fusionmenu
might not fly in big cosmopolitan cities, but here on the Croatian coast, appreciative in-
ternational diners cling to it like a sesame-oil life preserver (45-75-kn starters and snacks,
90-150-kn main dishes, daily 11:00-24:00, Pobijana 10, tel. [phone]).
Lady Pi-Pi, named for a comical, anatomically correct, and slightly off-putting statue
out front, sits high above town just inside the wall. The food, prepared on an open grill, is
just an excuse to sit out on their vine-covered terrace, with several tables overlooking the