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tomanEmpire).Dubrovnikperseveredpartlybecauseoftheinherentlycorruptnature
of the Ottomans; always susceptible to bribery (or “tribute”), the sultans were more
than happy to let Dubrovnik thrive...provided they got their cut.
As time went on, Dubrovnik's status grew. Europe's big-league nations were glad
tohaveasecondmajorseafaringpowerintheAdriatictobalancetheVenetianthreat;
Dubrovnik emerged as an attractive alternative at times when Venetian ports were
blockaded by the Ottomans. A free Dubrovnik was more valuable than a pillaged,
plundered Dubrovnik.
In 1808, Napoleon conquered the Adriatic and abolished the Republic of
Dubrovnik. After Napoleon was defeated, the fate of the continent was decided at the
Congress of Vienna. But Dubrovnik's delegate was denied a seat at the table. The
more powerful nations, no longer concerned about Venice and fed up after years of
being sweet-talked by Dubrovnik, were afraid that the delegate would play old alli-
ances off each other to re-establish an independent Republic of Dubrovnik. Instead,
the city became a part of the Habsburg Empire and entered a long period of decline.
Libertas still hasn't died in Dubrovnik. In the surreal days of the early 1990s,
whenYugoslaviawasreshufflingitself,amovementforthecreationofanewRepub-
lic of Dubrovnik gained some momentum (led by a judge who, in earlier times, had
convicted others for the same ideas). Another movement pushed for Dalmatia to se-
cede as its own nation. But now that the dust has settled, today's locals are content
and proud to be part of an independent Republic of Croatia.
Though the war killed tourism in the 1990s, today the crowds are most decidedly
back—even exceeding prewar levels. In fact, Dubrovnik's biggest downside is the over-
whelmingmiddaycrushofmultinationaltouristswhoconvergeontheOldTownwhentheir
cruise ships dock. These days the city's economy is based almost entirely on tourism, and
most locals have moved to the suburbs so they can rent their Old Town apartments to trav-
elers. All of this can make the Old Town feel, at times, like a very pretty but soulless theme
park. Dubrovnik lacks the gritty real-world vibe of Split or the charming local vitality of
Ljubljana. But, like Venice, Dubrovnik rewards those who get off the beaten path and stick
around beyond the normal midday cruise-ship window. Europeans set up here for a full
week or two to explore the entire region, and even busy Americans might want to build
some slack into their Dubrovnik time for a wide array of worthwhile side-trips (outlined in
the Near Dubrovnik, Montenegro, and Mostar chapters).
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