HVAR - Croatia and Slovenia - page 397

neath the floor inside (75-115-kn pastas, 85-220-kn meat dishes, 75-260-kn seafood dishes,
daily10:00-23:00;attheendoftheembankment,bythegreenlighthouse;tel.[phone]).
Passarola isHvar'sclassysplurge,withatrendy,minimalistinterior(whitearches,black
tables),outdoorseatingontheroofsurroundinganopenceiling,andanimpressiveguestlist
of celebrity diners. Chef Hrvoje Zirojevi ć combines Dalmatian food with graceful nouvelle
cuisinepresentation;consideringthequality,hekeepshispricesreasonable.Whenit'sbusy,
the service can get harried. Reservations are recommended (70-140-kn starters, 110-190-kn
main dishes, 12-kn cover charge, daily 10:00-15:00 & 18:00-24:00, Mate Mili č i ć a 10, tel.
021/717-374, mobile [phone]).
Hvar's “Restaurant Row”: The streets just above the main square (to the left, as you
face the cathedral) are full of restaurants slinging similar Dalmatian and Mediterranean fare
in an upscale atmosphere. Outdoor tables make it easy to window-shop and find your fa-
vorite. These places value style over substance. In this zone, three places are particularly
well-regarded: Luna has colorful, lively decor and a delightful rooftop terrace; I wouldn't
eat here unless you can sit up top (75-90-kn pastas, 80-150-kn main courses, 10-kn cover
charge, daily 12:00-24:00, closed Nov-March, tel. [phone]). Macondo, one street up,
offers fun, tight sidewalk seating and a nondescript dining room serving mostly fish dishes
(100-110-kn pastas, 90-150-kn main courses, defiantly cash only, Mon-Sat 12:00-14:00
& 18:30-24:00, Sun 18:30-24:00, closed Nov-March, tel. [phone]). Pala č a Paladini,
in a 500-year-old-palace, has a large enclosed garden courtyard and a small dining room
(70-100-kn pastas, 90-180-kn meat dishes, 200-300-kn fish splurges, daily 11:00-24:00,
across the street from Luna, tel. [phone]).
Breakfast
(See “Hvar Town” map, here .)
If you're sleeping in a soba, you're on your own for breakfast. Small bakeries are scattered
aroundtown.Forsomethingmoresubstantial,dropinto Café Pjaca, withidealoutdoorseat-
ingonthemainsquareacrossfromtheTI(35-65-knoptions,daily7:00-23:00,coolmodern
decor). Hotel Park 's enticing terrace, overlooking the square and harbor, is a scenic place
for a pricey breakfast (59-79 kn, daily 7:00-11:00).
Hvar Connections
By Boat
Bigcarferries usetheportatStari Grad,across theisland fromHvartown(a20-minute bus
ride; local buses are scheduled to connect Hvar town with these boats). Smaller passenger-
only catamarans leave from the harbor in the heart of Hvar town. For non-drivers going to