HVAR - Croatia and Slovenia - page 389

Eating at Palmižana: SeverallazycaféssurroundtheVinogradiš ć ebeachatPalmižana.
A bit higher on the hill is Meneghello, run by a family of the same name that's been in
Palmižana for over a century. They serve mostly seafood on a colorful, funky terrace (open
long hours daily April-Oct, reservations smart for dinner, follow signs from the Palmižana
marina, tel. [phone]). Meneghello Restaurant is the centerpiece of a complex of rent-
able, color-coded bungalows that bunny-hop through an overgrown botanical garden down
to the beach ( www.palmizana.hr ) .
Eating at Vlaka: The culinary highlight of the island is at the other end, in Vlaka.
Konoba Dionis is a charming stone hut with just six tables on a covered terrace, overlook-
ing vineyards, an olive grove, and the distant sea. The electricity comes from a generator,
and the water comes from the sky—so the cuisine is straightforward, traditional Dalmatian
dishes, and the focus is on relaxation. Their “aubergine pie” is a tasty eggplant lasagna (fig-
ure about 250 kn per person for a meal, mid-May-mid-Oct daily 12:00-23:00, closed off-
season, mobile [phone] or 091-765-6044). Tourists often make the long journey over
to Dionis, only to find it's already full—reservations (especially for lunch) are a must. Note
that there are boats from Hvar to Vlaka in peak season (but the schedule is sparse; ask at
TI).
Shopping in Hvar
Little souvenir kiosks are everywhere on Hvar. The big item here is lavender, produced on
the island for the last century or so (see “Hvar Wine and Lavender” sidebar, earlier). In ad-
dition to making things smell good, lavender is acclaimed by some locals for its medicinal
properties: Massage some lavender oil onyourtemples to cure a headache, orrubit onyour
chest forasthma. You'll see it sold in bottles orsachets—a fragrant souvenir that helps keep
your luggage smelling fresh, too. Hvar town also has plenty of jewelry shops selling coral
and other pieces made from semi-precious stones.
Nightlife in Hvar
This island town is known for its nightlife, so it teems with the young and the restless (i.e.,
the loud).
Mellow Nightlife
Strolling the harbor, then continuing out of town along the waterfront promenade, is a fine
way to pass a warm, starry evening. Pršuta 3 wine bar, right in the heart of town, is a cozy
and chill place to hang out, socialize, and sip some of the island's wines with light food
(about 25 wines available by the glass, 25-75 kn/glass, cash only, nightly 18:00-late, mobile
098-969-6193).