Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Velo Grablje, once famous for its lavender oil production, is now a near-ghost town on
a rugged plateau with far-off views of the sea. Most people migrated to Hvar town in the
1970s and 1980s, though seven natives still reside here.
From Velo Grablje, follow the medieval footpath through the ravine downhill about
two miles to the abandoned village of Malo Grablje. After the phylloxera epidemic, most
people from this village moved down to Milna, on the sea (where tourism provided them
with better prospects for earning income). The last holdout left in 1968. But recently the
grandson of the first villager who left returned to Malo Grablje and opened a rustic restaur-
ant called Konoba Stari Komin (open 16:00-23:00 only, run by Berti Tudor—the surname
of virtually everyone who originated in this village, possible to call ahead to arrange a peka
dinner, mobile 091-527-6408). Even if the konoba is closed, you can explore the streets of
Malo Grablje. Poke into the ruined buildings to find a giant, still-functioning olive press.
The humble church hosts a Mass twice per year, when people from Milna return to their an-
cestral village. Next to the church is a huge reservoir and cistern for catching rainwater.
Leaving Malo Grablje, follow the gravel road down into the beach town of Milna. The
seafront path from Milna back to Hvar (about 2.5 miles) is extremely rugged and can be
nearlyimpossibletofollow;unlessyou'reveryadventurous,it'sbesttowalkalongthemain
road (not very scenic) or take a public bus back to Hvar (any bus that goes between Stari
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