Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Known for its excellent wines (grapes love the island's perfect combination of wind and
sunshine), stony terraces, and smattering of fragrant lavender fields, Hvar Island's gentle
climate is appreciated by tourists and farmers alike. Every corner and cove of Hvar has
something to offer, but for speedy tourists, the most obvious and easiest side-trip from Hvar
town is the Pakleni Islands, a small archipelago just offshore.
Planning Your Time
Don't overdose on Dalmatian islands. On a quick visit, overnighting on one island is
enough—choose either Hvar or Kor č ula, and give it at least two nights and a full day.
(If you're efficient, you can squeeze in a brief visit to Hvar on the way to Kor č ula—see
strategies next.) On a longer, more relaxed vacation, sleep in both towns.
Iftimeisshort,well-connectedHvariseasiertoseeontherun(forexample,afewhours
en route between Split and Kor č ula). But if you're day-tripping here, note that most sights
(exceptthefortress)closeforafternoonsiestaat12:00or13:00,which,maddeningly,isjust
afterthemorningJadrolinijacatamaranfromSplitarrives.Butyoucanstillstrollthesquare,
have a leisurely lunch, and go for a hike or swim before catching your onward connection.
(If you're an early riser and eager to do some morning sightseeing, see if there's an earlier
Krilo catamaran from Split—it often has a 9:30 departure in summer—or consider the early
car ferry from Split to Stari Grad, then bus into Hvar town before everything closes.)
With a full day on Hvar, do your sightseeing—or take a hike to the fortress (with little
shade)—in the morning, before the weather gets too hot and while the sights are open. Use
the rest of the day to relax, swim at the beaches, explore the Old Town, or take a trip out
to Palmižana on the Pakleni Islands (this excursion works well in the late afternoon—take a
dip while it's still hot, then hike over to Vlaka for your dinner reservation at Dionis).
Be warned that July and especially August are peak-of-the-peak season. When you ask
locals about crowds in August, they just roll their eyes and groan. It can be impossible
to find a room, and the “undiscovered” back lanes and “hidden” offshore islands are jam-
packedwithloud,partyingtourists.InAugust,considergivingHvaramiss.Conversely,the
town is completely dead off-season (roughly from the second or third week of Oct until the
third or fourth week of May), when many hotels, restaurants, and even museums shut their
doors for winter hibernation. The best times to visit Hvar are late May through the end of
June, and September through early October.
Orientation to Hvar
First off, “Hvar” is pronounced like it's spelled, but the H is nearly silent. If you struggle
with it, just say “var” (but don't say “huh-var,” which just sounds silly to locals).
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