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oftown(ObalabanaBerislavi ć a).Linedwithexpensiverestaurants,andcloggedwithgiddy,
ice-cream-licking tourists, this promenade is the highlight of a visit to Trogir. Often the
enormous yachts of the rich and famous stern-tie into the good life here, giving wanderers
somethingtogazeatandyakabout.Atthefarendofthepromenade,the Kamerlengo Fort-
ress has a lookout tower with fine views over the town and region.
Sleeping in Trogir
Some travelers prefer sleepy Trogir to bustling Split. But, since Trogir is also lively after-
hours, and is in the airport's flight path, it's not the quietest place in Dalmatia.
$$$ Hotel Pašike is a family-run place with lots of character. Situated over a restaurant
in the Old Town, its 14 rooms come with over-the-top traditional formality (standard Db-
€135/€118/€100, superior Db-€150/€135/€115, less Nov-April, 10 percent cheaper if you
pay cash or stay longer than 3 nights, air-con, free guest computer and Wi-Fi, ulica Sinjska,
tel. 021/885-185, mobile 091-484-8434, www.hotelpasike.com , info@hotelpasike.com ,
Buble family).
$$ Hotel Concordia, with 11 outmoded-but-tidy, slightly overpriced rooms at the end
of the embankment, is run with warmth by the Bulum family (Sb-€65/€60, small Db with
view or bigger Db without view-€80/€75, big Db with view-€100/€90, lower prices are for
Sept-June, only partially open in winter, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Obala bana Berislavi ć a 22, tel.
021/885-400, www.concordia-hotel.net , concordia-hotel@st.t-com.hr ).
$ Pala ć a Stafileo, well-run by gentle Thomas, has six apartments in a 15th-century
Venetian palace buried in a quiet part of town (Db-€60-70/€55-65/€50-60, price depends
on size of apartment, cash only, no breakfast, air-con, lots of stairs, Subi ć eva 7a, tel. 021/
885-680, mobile 098-131-3171, www.trogironline.com/stafileo , stafileo@vip.hr ) .
$ Hostel Trogir is a basic, bare-bones slumbermill with four dorm rooms on Č iovo Is-
land, a 10-minute walk across the bridge from downtown Trogir (bunk in 6- to 8-bed dorm-
€14, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Trg Sv. Jakova 7, mobile 091-579-2190, hosteltrogir@yahoo.com ,
Marin Roži ć ).
Krka National Park
While Plitvice has Croatia's best waterfalls, they're not the only game in town. An hour
north of Split, an easy detour off the expressway, is the glittering canyon of Krka National
Park. This sprawling park—where the Krka (pronounced KUR-kah) River spreads out and
splits into many fingers cut deep into the parched limestone, with shimmering blue waters
and forested walls—could occupy a nature lover for days. But its claim to fame is simple to
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