Sights in Split - Croatia and Slovenia - page 346

with a thin layer of spinach, onion, and olive oil. They can also make you a grilled
sandwich—just point to what you want (10-30 kn, Mon-Sat 7:00-23:00, closed Sun, just
outside Diocletian's Palace on the skinny street that runs along the wall at Bosanska
4, tel. [phone]). Kantun Paulina (“Paulina's Corner”) is a local favorite for take-
away ć evap č i ć i —Balkan grilled meats (17-20 kn, Mon-Sat 8:30-24:00, Sun 10:00-24:00,
Matoši ć a 1). For descriptions of your options, see the “Balkan Flavors” sidebar on here .
Wine Bar: Paradox Wine & Cheese Bar, in an unassuming urban zone behind the
National Theater, offers an inviting opportunity to sample some local wines. Their well-
structured menu lists 120 wines, 50 of which are available by the glass (20-120-kn glasses,
100-800-kn bottles). Sit either in the cozy old-meets-modern interior or out on the terrace
(also 25-40-kn light bites, including cheese and prosciutto, daily 9:00-24:00, Dubrova č ka
18, mobile [phone]).
Breakfast: Thebudgetchoiceistosimplybuysomepastriesatabakeryandeatthemon
aharborfrontbench. Hotel Peristil servesanall-you-can-eatbreakfast—includingeggs—to
non-guests for 60 kn (daily 7:00-11:00); the adjacent Duje Restaurant, just behind the
cathedral,hasasimilardeal.Foracheapalternative,headovertotheMatejuškafishermen's
port,where Leut restaurantservesa30-45-knbreakfastontheirterrace(from9:30).Several
of my recommended restaurants also offer breakfast.
Gelato: Splithasseveralspotsfordeliciousicecream (sladoled). Mostice-creamparlors
(ku ć a sladoleda) are open daily 8:00-24:00. Natives recommend Hajduk, named for Split's
soccerteam;askthemtodipyourconeinmilkchocolatefornoextracharge(ablockoffthe
mainMarmontovapedestriandrag,aroundthecornerfromPizzeriaGalijaatMatoši ć eva4).
Split Connections
By Boat
AsthetransporthubfortheDalmatianCoast,Splithasgoodboatconnectionstonearlyany-
where you want to go. The fast passenger catamarans dock close to the Old Town: the Krilo
catamaran uses dock #11 (a.k.a. Gat Sv. Petra), which is along the pier halfway between the
mainferryterminal andtheOldTown;andtheJadrolinija catamaran usuallyarrivesandde-
parts at the handy Obala Lazareta embankment just in front of the Old Town (although it
may sometimes use dock #11 instead—ask when you buy your ticket). Big car ferries can
arrive or depart from all along the harbor (electronic boards display which dock each boat
leaves from). Note that these locations sometimes change according to boat traffic.