Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
On the Peristyle:
The obvious choice is right on the main square of the Old Town,
Diocletian'sformerentryhall.Alldaylong,thePeristylestepsserveasmakeshiftcafétables
forthe bar called
Luxor,
with red cushions and small tables scattered along the steps. Ifyou
sit on a cushion, you're expected to order a drink (but you can sit or stand elsewhere for
free). In the evening—as twilight encroaches and floodlights transform the square into one
of the most atmospheric public spaces in Europe—live music breaks out (generally starting
between 20:00 and 21:00 and continuing until around midnight). The smooth marble tiles
of the Peristyle—worn to a slippery sheen by two millennia of visitors—becomes a dance
floor, as people salsa, foxtrot, or pop-and-lock their way around the majestic space. Where
else can you cut a rug in the grand entry hall of a Roman palace?
Majstora Jurja:
Thisstreet,whichrunsalongthenorthedgeofDiocletian'sPalace(just
inside the wall), is lined with a mellow gaggle of low-key hangouts. Some mood music
plays, but the soundtrack here is mostly chatting, laughing, and flirting. West of the Golden
Gate, the lineup of café/bars includes the nondescript
Kala
and
Mosquito.
Two better op-
tions are nearby: Up the side street at Dominisova 9,
Galerija
has the classiest atmosphere,
with an upscale-feeling (but not stuffy), gallery-like ambience and a display case of cakes.
Abit farther along Majstora Jurja is
Teak,
with anamesake woodyinterior that feels almost
distinguished. East of the Golden Gate is a tamer zone, with the soccer-themed
Mali Flek
and then the
Red Room,
filling a large square with tables.
“Slavija Square”:
This is my own nickname for the tight, stepped area that's squeezed
in front of Hotel Slavija, near Radi
ć
Brothers Square (Trg Bra
ć
e Radi
ć
a; from the square's
statue of Maruli
ć
, enter the Old Town and bear right, following the beat). This area is more
youthfulandrowdy,withthrobbingtechnomusicandcocktailsthatflowfreely.Clambering
up the steps are several bars, including the mellow
Figa
and the hip
Fluid,
with predictable
thumpa-thumpa atmosphere. Near the top of the stairs, the engagingly scruffy
Split Circus
boasts magic-marker walls and several varieties of
rakija
, the ubiquitous Balkan firewater.
A few steps beyond, through the enclosed courtyard on the right,
Ghetto
has a mellower
sailors' bordello-theme interior, with heart-shaped chairs, red velvet, and vivid graffiti.
Behind the Loggia:
Fortheyoungest,trendiestsceneintheOldTown,headforthezone
localscall
Iza Lo
đ
a
(“BehindtheLoggia”).FromthegrandPeople'sSquare,followthebeat
behind the former City Hall loggia to discover a well-dressed meat market populated by
sleazy young men and tipsy American girls determined to make bad decisions. The main
magnet here is the standing-room-only
Gaga,
with a pounding dance beat, indoor and out-
doorbarareas,andalaser-lightshowontheancient stonesabove.Atthefarendofthelittle
square, like a mellow grandparent observing the rowdy younger generation, is
La Linea
(which locals call simply “taverna”)—an old sailors' pub decorated with nautical flags.
Other Areas:
The large square at the top of Marmontova, just before the
Zara
store, is
crammed with tables belonging to a half-dozen identical-feeling cafés. And with the arrival
