Sights in Split - Croatia and Slovenia - page 316

others see this as simply the early-21st century's contribution to the architectural hodge-
podge that is Split.
At the west end of the Riva, the people-parade of Croatian culture turns right and heads
away from the water, up Marmontova. Although it lacks the seafront cachet, this drag is
equallyenjoyableandfeelsmorelocal.AsyouwalkupMarmontova,ontheleftistheplain-
Jane outer facade of the arcade that defines Trg Republike, a grand and genteel Napoleonic-
era square. Duck through the passage across from the fish market to bask in its “poor man's
St. Mark's Square” ambience, and maybe to linger over a drink at the recommended Ba-
jamonti café. A bit farther up Marmontova, on the right, look for the whimsical fountain
nicknamed “The Teacup,” with a hand squirting water across the sidewalk into a funnel. At
the top of Marmontova are some department stores, a lively café square, and the Croatian
National Theater (Hrvatsko Narodno Kazalište, HNK).
▲ People's Square (Narodni Trg)
Locals call this lively square at the center of the Old Town Pjaca, pronounced the same as
the Italian piazza (PYAH-tsah). Stand in the center and enjoy the bustle. Look around for
a quick lesson in Dalmatian history. When Diocletian lived in his palace, a Roman village
popped up here, just outside the wall. Face the former wall of Diocletian's Palace (behind
and to the right of the 24-hour clock tower). This was the western entrance, or so-called
“Iron Gate.” By the 14th century, a medieval town had developed, making this the main
square of Split.