Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
you're starting in Zagreb or Plitvice. Along this road, you'll enjoy good but not spectacular
views—similar to what you'll see in Dalmatia, but less developed. To find this road from
Rijeka, just follow signs for
Split
and
Zadar
(being careful not to get on the expressway).
It's striking how desolate it feels as you drive along the Kvarner coastal road. The most
appealing spot for a break is
Senj
(pronounced “sehn”—the j is mostly silent, but has a
slight
y
sound). Senj has a little harbor and a modest square with a jumble of outdoor cafés.
The town is watched over by the boxy fortress of a band of pirates called the Uskoks. These
were Serb and Croat refugees forced out of their homes in the interior when the Ottomans
invadedinthe16thcentury.AfterresettlinghereinSenj,theybecamepiratesandbeganter-
rorizing the Adriatic coastline. While they claimed to target only Ottoman ships, they also
harassed anyone who traded with the Ottomans—including the Venetians. Finally the Aus-
trians—bowed by political pressure from Venice—put down the Uskoks. Today Senj is the
best jolt ofcivilization along this road,with busloads oftourgroupsconstantly droppingoff
here for a coffee-and-WC break. This means that the natives of Senj—perhaps harkening
back to their pirate ancestors—are adept at overcharging and shortchanging visitors. Check
your bill carefully against the posted menu prices.
Senj is also the easiest point where the Kvarner coastal road connects to the speedy A-1
expressway that runs parallel to the coast inland. From Senj, a well-traveled road cuts away
from the coast and soon begins twisting up the coastal mountain range. After about an hour,
you'll arrive at the A-1 expressway, followed by the war-scarred town of Oto
č
ac. (For more
