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daily 10:00-18:00, off-season Mon-Sat 10:00-16:00, closed Sun, Kanedolo 90, tel.
052/779-208, www.kabola.hr ) . Kozlovi ć has a slick, super-modern tasting facility,
perched on a hill overlooking the valley behind Momjan. While most of their wines
are whites (about 85 percent, including lots of malvazija and some muscat), they also
have some reds ( teran and blends). Marko is happy to pour you some tastes in the
hopes that you might buy a bottle (50-100-kn bottles). If you want a more in-depth
experience, reserve in advance for a guided tour and a more elaborate tasting paired
withsomelocalsnacks(80knperperson;Mon-Sat10:00-17:00,closedSun,Vale78,
tel. 052/779-177, mobile 099-277-9177, www.kozlovic.hr ) .
Near Motovun: The hillsides below Motovun are draped in enticing vineyards.
While none of these is as slick, professional, or well-regarded as the ones near Mom-
jan listed above (about a 20- to 25-minute drive north), some of them do welcome
passing travelers for a sample. As these are hardworking facilities rather than snazzy
tasting rooms, they offer a more intimate and personal peek at local wines. From
Motovun, head south (turning left as you come down from the hill) along the humble
street at the very bottom of town, then watch for the turn-off on the right just past the
gas station. Two wineries are well-signposted from here, each within a few minutes'
drive. First you'll come to Tomaz, where Klaudio and Danijela Tomaz produce mal-
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