Travel Reference
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nostalgic train trip. To get here from Buje, leave town following signs for Trieste and Kop-
er , then turn off toward Plovanija, Portorož, and the Slovenian border; after a couple of
minutes, watch for Casa Parenzana signs to the right.
• If you're interested in a wine-tasting detour to two of Istria's swankiest wineries ( Kabola
and Kozlovi ć , both described on here ) , now's your chance: Head past the entrance to Buje
on the main road past the Grožnjan turnoff, then watch for signs on the right to Momjan/
Momiano. Take this road through the village of Kremenje; soon after, you'll pass Kabola
on the right. Kozlovi ć is across the valley around the far side of Momjan.
To skip the wines and continue on our route, leaving Buje, look for signs that take you
along a twisty, narrow road (via Triban) right to Grožnjan.
Grožnjan
Grožnjan(grohzh-NYAHN,GrisignanainItalian)isyourtrapped-in-a-time-warpIstrianhill
town. Its setting, artfully balanced on the tip of a vine-and-olive-tree-covered promontory,
is pleasing, if not thrilling. The time-passed character of its sleepy lanes invites you to get
lost and leave your itinerary on your dashboard. Not long ago, Grožnjan was virtually for-
gotten. But now several artists have taken up residence here, keeping it Old World but with
a spiffed-up, bohemian ambience. If gallery-browsing is your idea of fun, you'll like this
place.
Grožnjan has virtually no “sights,” but it's a delightful place to go for a stroll. All roads
lead to the convenient and free parking lot, a few steps from the traffic-free village. Distant
sea views from the main terrace at the entrance to town (with a modern café) remind you
that you're not that far from the Adriatic. A few English panels are posted around town,
identifying what passes for “important” buildings in this sleepy burg. The town church's
bell tower is its only landmark. Inside the church, the big wall painting over the altar shows
angels intervening in the Pula amphitheater to save Christians who were thrown to the lions
and tigers.
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