ISTRIA - Croatia and Slovenia - page 255

More Hill Towns
While Motovun is the top hill town, a charm bracelet of appealing villages sits close by
it; exploring them on your drive can make for a perfect day. Some are better for visiting
(Grožnjan, Završje), others better for a meal (Brtonigla, Livade), and others worth a quick
stop if you're passing through (Buje, Oprtalj, Hum). I've listed these roughly in the order
you'llreachthem,comingfromthehighwayandworkingyourwaytowardMotovun.While
you'll traverse some slow and windy roads, this entire trip is quick—you could do the full
circle (including Hum) without stops in less than three hours. This route is just a rough
framework.Ventureoffit.Rundownleadsfromlocals.Followintriguingsignstowine-tast-
ings, restaurants, and agroturizams . Sniff out some truffles in the Motovun Forest. You will
see some other tourists, but this area isn't overrun...yet. There may just be some overlooked
gems in the Istrian interior waiting for you to discover.
• From Rovinj, take the fast ipsilon highway (A-9) north. You have two exit options for this
area. If you want to enjoy a meal in Brtonigla, take the Nova Vas exit, drive into Nova Vas,
then follow signs for five minutes into Brtonigla. But if you want to head straight to the oth-
er towns, take the exit for Buje and skip down to that section.
Brtonigla
Brtonigla(bur-toh-NEEG-lah,VerteneglioinItalian,literally“blacksoil”)isatinywinevil-
lage surrounded by vineyards. It's a bit closer to the sea than the other hill towns in this
chapter,andsitsabovegentleslopesratherthanonadramatichilltop.Butthisdeserted-feel-
ing place is home to a luxurious hotel/restaurant and a well-regarded local eatery. Still, if
you're not eating or sleeping here, give it a pass. Once in town, you'll find just a handful of
haphazard streets.
Sleeping and Eating in Brtonigla: $$$ San Rocco Hotel and Restaurant is a family-
run hotel suitable for a serious splurge. Not long ago, this was the abandoned shell of a
traditional Istrian house; now, after an extensive renovation, it's a cushy and elegant hotel
with traditional beams-and-stone decor and all the modern amenities. With 14 rooms, an
outdoor pool, a big indoor hot tub and sauna, and distant views of the Adriatic, it's a wel-
coming retreat. “Tradition” rooms come with views or Jacuzzi tubs (Db-€209/€199/€179),
but the simpler and smaller “classic” (Db-€189/€179/€139) and mid-sized “comfort” (Db-
€199/€189/€159) rooms are plenty comfortable (Sb costs 35 percent less than Db, no extra
charge for 1- or 2-night stays, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, loaner bikes, Srednja ulica 2,
tel. [phone], www.san-rocco.hr , [e-mail] , Rita and the Fernetich family). Its
well-regarded, upmarket restaurant —opentoguests andnon-guests alike—features Istrian
cuisine served with a modern twist, in a dressy dining room or outside, with poolside eleg-