ISTRIA - Croatia and Slovenia - page 254

is released, making it easier to find (May-Nov for black, mid-Sept-Jan for white).
Once dug up, they look pretty unassuming—like a tough, dirty pinecone.
Trufflescanbeeateninavarietyofways.Thankstotheirpowerfulanddistinctive
kick, they're often used sparingly for flavor—grated like parmesan cheese, or as
truffle oil sprinkled over a dish. But you'll also find them in cheese, salami, olive
oil, tapenade, pâté, and even ice cream. Truffle is commonly served with
pasta—sometimes in a rich cream sauce, and other times more simply, just with olive
oil. Truffle soufflé and truffle frittata (scrambled eggs) are also popular.
Some people find that the pungent, musty aftertaste follows them around all
day...and all night, when its supposed aphrodisiac qualities kick in. Because they're
so rare and difficult to find, truffles are incredibly expensive—but many people are
morethanhappytopayroyallyforthatinimitableflavor.Longovershadowedbyoth-
er famous truffle regions, Istria is becoming more well-known for this precious local
product.
If you're a truffle nut, you'll find yourself in heaven here; if not, you may still ap-
preciate the chance to sample a little taste of truffle. While you do that, ponder how
one giant tuber changed the economy of an entire region.
Konoba pod Voltom is actually inside the town's upper, main gate (on the right, with
the Taberna sign above the door). Motovun's most traditional eatery serves excellent, well-
presented Istrian food in a cozy dining room. In good weather (June-Sept only), it's hard
to beat their view loggia, just below and outside the gate (45-60-kn pastas, 60-110-kn main
courses, 80-260-kn truffle splurges, daily 12:00-22:00, closed Jan, tel. [phone]).
Other Scenic Eateries: Two other, simpler places also have seating along the wall, with
these same mammoth views. Konoba Fakin, run by the winemaking family of the same
name(seesidebaron here ),offersashortmenuofIstriandishes(45-90-knpastas,50-145-kn
main dishes, daily 10:00-24:00, tel. [phone]). The Montona Gallery café, with tables
along the rampart between the two gates, serves drinks, ice cream, snacks, and 30- to 60-kn
pizzas (daily 9:00-24:00, tel. [phone]).
On the Main Square: Hotel Kaštel's Palladio Restaurant has ambitiously executed
food and delightful seating right on the leafy main square—but I'd skip the dull interior
(50-80-kn pastas, 70-165-kn main dishes, 10 percent discount with this topic, daily
7:00-22:00; also listed under “Sleeping in Motovun,” earlier).