ISTRIA - Croatia and Slovenia - page 250

twice weekly (usually Mon and Fri evenings, at 21:00 in summer and 20:00 in winter,
www.klapamotovun.com ) . If you hear them, find a bench and enjoy the show.
At the other end of the square is a leafy little piazza dominated by the big, pink Hotel
Kaštel —the main industry in town. This is also where bigwigs in town for the local film
festivalcallhome—askthestaffaboutrecentsightingsofB-,C-,andD-listcelebrities. (For
example, if you're staying here, you may be showering in the same bathroom once graced
by Jason Biggs, star of American Pie. Lucky you.)
Between the church and Hotel Kaštel, follow the lane to the ramparts. Take the five-
minute stroll around the Old Town on these fortifications. While most of Croatia is overrun
by stray cats, Motovun seems populated by dog lovers. If you see or hear dogs in people's
backyards, it's a safe bet that they are trained to hunt for truffles in the surrounding forest.
As you breathe in the stunning panorama, notice that well-defended Motovun has been
fortified three times—two layers of wall up top, and a third down below.