Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Despite these and other threats, the amphitheater's exterior has been left gloriously in-
tact. The 1999 film Titus (with Anthony Hopkins and Jessica Lange) was filmed here, and
today the amphitheater is still used to stage spectacles—from Placido Domingo to Elton
John—with seating for about 5,000 fans. Recently, the loudest concerts were banned, be-
cause the vibrations were damaging the old structure.
Before leaving, don't miss the museum exhibit (in the “subterranean hall”—follow ex-
hibition signs down the chute marked #17). This takes you to the lower level of the am-
phitheater, where gladiators and animals were kept between fights. When the fight began,
gladiators would charge up a chute and burst into the arena, like football players being in-
troduced at the Super Bowl. As you go down the passage, you'll walk on a grate over an
even lower tunnel. Pula is honeycombed with tunnels like these, originally used for sewers
and as a last-ditch place of refuge in case of attack. Inside, the exhibit—strangely dedicated
to “olive oil and wine production in Istria” instead of, you know, gladiators—is surprisingly
interesting. Browse the impressive collection of amphorae (see sidebar), find your location
on the replica of a fourth-century A.D. Roman map (oriented with east on top), and ogle the
gigantic grape press and two olive-oil mills.
On your way out, check the corridor across from the ticket booth to see if there are any
temporary exhibits.
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