ISTRIA - Croatia and Slovenia - page 173

vasia)—producing a light white wine that can be either sweet (slatko) or dry (suho).
Malvazija wines are produced throughout Europe, but Istria's malvazija is indigen-
ous. Malvazija comes in several forms: “fresh” (table wine, aged in stainless steel) or
agedinbarrels(ofteninFrenchoakorinlocalIstrianacacia;lookfor barrique onthe
label). White blends (usually including some malvazija ) are also common.
When it comes to red wine, you'll see plenty of the heavy, very “big” teran, from
refošk grapes. Because teran is full-bodied, it's often blended with merlot or other
grapes to soften its flavor. Teran pairs well with pršut.
For more on Istrian wines—including several wineries where drivers can stop off
for a taste—see here . If you're carless, consider the two wine bars in Rovinj, de-
scribed on here .
AfterNapoleonseizedtheregion,thenwasdefeated,RovinjbecamepartofAustria.The
Venetians had neglected Istria, but the Austrians invested in it, bringing the railroad, gas
lights, and a huge Ronhill tobacco factory. (This factory—recently replaced by an enorm-
ous, state-of-the-art facility you'll pass on the highway farther inland—is one of the town's
most elegant structures, and is slated for extensive renovation in the coming years.) The
HabsburgstappedPulaandTriestetobetheempire'smajorports—cursingthosecities with
pollution and sprawl, while allowing Rovinj to linger in its trapped-in-the-past quaintness.
Before long, Austrians discovered Istria as a handy escape for a beach holiday. Tourism
cametoRovinjinthelate1890s,whenapowerfulAustrianbaronboughtoneoftheremote,
barren islands offshore and brought it back to life with gardens and a grand villa. Before
long, another baron bought another island...and a tourist boom was under way. In more re-
cent times, Rovinj has become a top destination for nudists. The resort of Valalta, just to the
north,isapopularspotforthoseseeking“southernexposure”...as averyrevealing brochure
at the TI illustrates ( www.valalta.hr ) . Whether you want to find PNBs (pudgy nude bodies),
or avoid them, remember that the German phrase FKK ( Freikörper Kultur, or “free body
culture”) is international shorthand for nudism.