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of each one. Just up the main street, you'll come to a fine, manicured park, dominated by
a huge monument honoring the lives lost in the fight to create a free Croatian nation. It
reads:“InordertomakerealthevisionofaCroatianhomeland,theylaiduponthealtartheir
dreams, their hopes, and their lives.” Noticing the giant block splintering into four pieces,
it's easy to imagine how this might illustrate the splitting up of the Yugoslav state...and to
wonder how local Serbs feel about this relatively new monument.
At the far end ofthe park is the Orthodox church. Oto č ac used to be about one-third Ser-
bian, but the Serbs were forced out during the war, and this church fell into disrepair. But,
as Oto č ac and Croatia show signs of healing, about two dozen Serbs have returned to town
and reopened their church (for more on the Serbian Orthodox Church, see here ) .
Going South: If you're heading south (to Split and the rest of Dalmatia) from Plitvice,
catchtheexpresswayat Gornja Plo č a. DrivesouthfromPlitviceonD-1,throughKorenica,
Pe ć ane, and Udbina, then follow signs for the A-1 expressway (and Lovinac ) via Kurjak to
the Gornja Plo č a on-ramp. Once on A-1, you'll twist south through the giant Sveti Rok tun-
nel to Dalmatia.
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