Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
scenic stretch of lakes and falls—the Upper Lakes—for last. If you get an early start, go-
ing in this direction helps keep you in front of the crowds. Hiking downhill, from Upper
to Lower, is easier (though you'll have to hike steeply up out of the canyon at the end),
and since most groups go the opposite way, you'll be passing—but not stuck behind—the
crowds. (Regardless of where and when you go, you won't be able to avoid the crowds en-
tirely.)
The Science of Plitvice
Virtually every visitor to Plitvice eventually asks the same question: How did it hap-
pen? A geologist once explained to me that Plitvice is a perfect storm of unique geo-
logical, climatic, and biological features found in very few places on earth.
Plitvice's magic ingredient is calcium carbonate (CaCO 3 ), a mineral deposit from
the limestone. This is the same thing that makes “hard water” hard. If you have hard
water, you may get calcium deposits on your cold-water faucet. But these depos-
its build up only at the faucet, not inside the pipes. That's because when hard wa-
ter is motionless (as it usually is in the pipes), it holds on to the calcium. But at the
point where the water is subjected to pressure and movement—as it pours out of the
faucet—it releases the calcium.
Plitviceworksthesameway.Aswaterflowsoverthepark'slimestoneformations,
it dissolves the rock, and the water becomes supersaturated with calcium carbonate.
When the water is still, it holds on to the mineral—which helps create the beautiful
deep-blue color of the pools. But when the water speeds up and spills over the edges
ofthelakes,itreleasescarbondioxidegas.Withoutthesupportofthecarbondioxide,
the water can't hold on to the calcium carbonate, so it gets deposited on the lake bed
andattheedgesofthelakes.Eventually,thesedepositsbuilduptoformarockcalled
travertine (the same composition as the original limestone, but formed in a different
way).Thetravertinecoatingbecomesthicker,andbarriers—andeventuallydamsand
newwaterfalls—are formed.Themossandgrassserveasanaturalfoundationforthe
calcification. In other words, the stone hangs down like the foliage because the fo-
liageguidesthegrowthofthestone.Becauseofthisongoingprocess,Plitvice'sland-
scape is always changing.
And why is the water so clear? For one thing, it comes directly from high-moun-
tain runoff, giving it little opportunity to become polluted or muddy. And because
the water calcifies everything it touches, it prevents the creation of mud—so the bot-
tomsofthelakesareentirelystone.Also,adifferentmineralinthewater,magnesium
carbonate, both gives the water its special color (which, park rangers brag, changes
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